Turia Dungarees by Pauline Alice | Overalls sewing pattern by Closet Case Files // closetcasefiles.com
Sewing Projects


It’s been pretty dramatic in the studio this week. On Friday my hard drive basically combusted (I swear I saw smoke coming out of my Macbook) and the last few days have revolved around a frantic series of visits to the Apple Genius Bar, in an anxious emotional stew of hope, fear, and despair. Thankfully I managed to recover all my data but I learned a valuable lesson about cloud storage. As in, spring for the annual fee to Dropbox so this never happens again. So, apologies for the absence of my weekly Sunday wrap up, but I’m back in business with a project I’ve been meaning to share for a little while.

Meet the Turia Dungarees by Pauline Alice! I liked this pattern a lot when I first saw it on Top Notch, but my brain basically exploded with Osh Gosh possibility when I saw this slightly sexed up version by Fruits Flowers Clouds (Sasha Fierce, indeed). While I am utterly in love with Sasha’s slimmer version (and fully intend to shamelessly copy her pattern modifications), I decided to make a straight up muslin first, not only to check out the fit as drafted, but also because I was kind of into the casual, relaxed vibe of Turia as is.

Turia Dungarees Pauline AliceTuria Dungarees Pauline AliceTuria Dungarees Pauline Alice

I made a straight size 44 with no modifications using a stretch cotton twill I found in one of the discount fabric shops on St. Hubert. The front, especially around the crotch, is quite roomy, not unlike the overalls I remember wearing in the 90’s. I get some pull lines around the crotch depending on how I’m standing, but it could also be that the straps are just a little too tight. The butt is thankfully not baggy, but I switched out the tiny back pockets in lieu of my Ginger Jeans standbys; my butt eats tiny back pockets for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I quite like the fit and length of the leg; it feels good to wear something a little loose after a winter of living in skinny jeans and leggings.

I really enjoyed making these; if you’ve had fun sewing jeans before, you’ll be happy to translate all those techniques to this pattern. My biggest issue was the finishing of the actual bib. The instructions call for you to fold over the raw edge and topstitch it down, but next time I’ll be using bias tape for a cleaner finish inside. I also had a hard time getting my flat fell seam at the front bib to transition to the folded seam on either side, but again, I think using bias tape here would resolve the issue. I only installed a zipper on one side, but these fit loose enough in the waist that I can slide them off and on without a problem.

Turia Dungarees Pauline Alice

I plan on making substantial fit adjustments for my next pair. I’m going to go for a closer fit, so I’m thinking about hacking the Carolyn pajama pants with the Turia bib and straps rather than making a ton of pattern mods to the existing draft. I will also be curving the center back to fit more closely along my spine and may add a waistband like Sasha did for hers. I’d like to use some of my heavier weight Cone stash and finally play around with distressing some denim.

Turia Dungarees Pauline AliceTuria Dungarees Pauline Alice

I’m also hoping to make the shorts variation without too many pattern modifications since I think they would be a simple, easy thing to throw on this summer with a croptop and some Birkenstocks. Because apparently (despite my initial hoots, jeers and reservations) the 90’s revival is infiltrating my soul. Oh nostalgia!

What about you guys? Has anyone else made this pattern? Are you into the overalls revival or does it just give you phantom wedgies and TLC flashbacks?

Details: Turia Dungarees in stretch twill, white rayon blouse from Uniqlo, Steve Madden ankle boots, Mac “Good to Go” lipstick

  • True story–I was still wearing overalls in freaking NINTH GRADE, which would have been in like 2001? (In my defense, my family was Mormon at the time, so that pretty much dictated my choice of fashion.) Luckily I never got teased, but I did have LOTS of people pick me up by the straps, resulting in the most painful wedgies of all time.

    I think as long as you’re not rocking the one-strap look, overalls are good! Let’s not go back to the one-strap!

    • So your family is not Mormon anymore? THIS we need to discuss over cocktails at some point (I was just thinking I really want to go to Texas this winter to hang out with you Sallie, Dixie and Amy so WHO KNOWS).

      And that strap pulling sound brutal. I have a sympathy wedgie for you.

      • Nope, the very next year my family left the church. But from the time I was born to when I was 15, we were very devout Mormons! I’m the oldest of 11 kids!

        I really hope you can plan a trip this winter! I totally want to go back to Montreal at some point, maybe just like, not in December again, haha!

  • Mandy Varelis

    Well, fashion does tend to go in 20 year cycles. I see the girls with flannel shirts and mini-backpacks and shudder a little, but smile in nostalgia a little too. I personally don’t like overalls, but those are stylin’. I so love the polka dots.

    • Thanks Mandy! The backpacks get to me, as do the fanny packs, acid wash mom jeans and huge platform sneakers/creepers. But I am 100% down with overalls, birks and crop tops. You can’t choose what you love 😉

  • Karen Neal

    What’s the maximum age to wear these?

    • I don’t think there is one? I’ve seen women in their 40s pull this pattern off… and I could totally see my mom like, out in the garden with a sunhat and some Turias on. OVERALLS HAVE NO AGE LIMIT!

  • Your polka dot turias are awesome. I made some floral turias a couple of weeks ago, and I feel great in them but they aren’t particulaly comfortable to wear! Maybe the straps need lengthening… I blogged about them here if you want to check them out: http://ladysewalot.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/floral-turia-dungarees.html 🙂

    • Those look GREAT! Love the floral. If they’re not comfy you might not have enough room in the torso (you look quite tall 😉 ) so yeah, either lengthening the straps or maybe dropping the crotch a little?

  • I have been on hold a lot this month – know what I am hearing in frequent rotation? EMF. (Thank god! the music I know every . single . word . to is back in fashion)

  • I am soooo into the overalls trend, I don’t even care. I came of age in the 90s and it makes me all nostalgic in the best way! Your polka dots are really cute…I want to make some using the Ginger pattern, because I realized all of the RTW overalls I like are basically jeans with a bib added on 🙂 I’ll be very interested to read about your adventures in distressing too!

    • I considered using Ginger but I think that fit would be too clsoe for what I’m thinking….. the crotch curve and ease on Carolyn is kinda perfect. Granted, all this will probs be going down in the fall. Feels weird to sew denim right now!

  • Michelle Rose

    Love these! I can’t do overalls because of my ginormous boobs, but I think they’re cute on others. I’m way onboard the 90’s revival bandwagon by the way, even if I wore the stuff 20 years ago. I’m planning on making a few rayon challis dresses and skirts for this summer.

    I hope that you make up a playlist of Sarah McLachlan, Natalie Merchant, and Paula Cole songs to listen to while you make up the shorts version of your Turias. 😉

    • No joke, I went to the first Lilith fair and brought flowers to throw at Fiona Apple. TIDAL WAS MY JAM!! Love rayon challis dresses! I’m hoping to whip up one using that BHL pdf only slip dress pattern!

      • HAHAHAHAHA, “Sleep to Dream” was my angry break-up song after my first “break up” (it was a one-month relationship).

  • Linda

    I met my – now husband- while wearing short overalls and a bikini top. How funny would it be if I rocked that look for our 20th anniversary!!!!

    • Linda, if you DON”T wear this on your anniversary I am going to be REALLY disappointed in you.

  • Love your Turia dungarees!!! Hope to see the modified version soon… ( you know I can’t find any denim like the one you recommend for the ginger in my city 🙁 i’ll need to look online…)

    • Yarg so frustrating! Denim searching is the worst. I actually think I’m going to cut out the shorts variation today with some lovely black linen…. DUNGAREES SUMMER!

  • Ann T

    I love the version by Kelly from Cut Cut Sew, and was so inspired that I bought the same fabric she used. http://sewsweetness.com/2015/05/dress-up-party-pattern-review-pauline-alice-turia-dungarees.html

    • Yes, Kelly’s are the jam! I’m going to make a pair of black linen shorts today I think…. If you post a review on PR send me the link! I’d love to see them, Ann.

  • When i was an enormous teenaged gal and then again when I was a wee college lass, I was always all about the overalls. And then I outgrew my supercute 1992 (black moleskin, worn with saggy thin white turtleneck) pair for a maternity pair. And I can’t go back there. I’m not a size 2 anymore, not even a 12, so no. But it was a very happy time, and I will just enjoy the memory and admire yours.
    But they are the ONLY small clothes I have hung onto. Because when I am old with cancer, I will fit into them again.
    And then donate me to science. And cremate the overalls.
    Did I mention the gold chainstitch topstitching?

    • Omg moleskin and saggy white turtleneck… the visual is so strong its almost psychedelic. Also, the image of you tiny, wizened and white haired enough to fit into your college overalls is something I will treasure forever.

      • The original motivation for the ‘look’ was, honestly, a little girl and her teeny, white haired granma in MATCHING black overalls and white turtlenecks. And the pal I was with said “Hey, you could do that now AND later. And you could make yourself the overalls, too.” That pal has sent me lots of sewing business, too, twentyfive years strong. Gotta buy her a drink. Swell pals!

  • Hélène

    Sorry but I’m not found of dungarees. They’re great if you can rock them with a very sexy top, but with an ordinary t-shirt or blouse, it looks like you’re on a wall-painting contract. However, polka dots do give more personnality to yours.

    • Yep, they’re not for everybody. I’m not sure they’re the most flatetring thing ever, but sometimes it’s nice to be like, “Eff flattering, I feel great!” Which strangely, I feel in overalls. But yes, a sexy top is something to consider . Maybe with my shorts version I’m going to make?

      • Hélène

        Heather, just wanted to clear things out: I was only talking about myself. I do look too masculine in dungarees, but not you. In fact, you look great in everything, probably because you feel great!

        • Aw, thanks Hélène! Even if you hated them, you can be honest here! My feelings wouldn’t get hurt.

          Btw, I think you mentioned it before but where are you living? I had some friends over for a sewing day recently and wondered “Hmm, I wonder if Hélène is driving distance from here!”

          • Hélène

            Hey Heather! I live in Vieux-Longueuil. Please feel free to contact me (I think you have my e-mail on your customers list) whenever you do a gathering of any sort with sewists/sewers/couturières friends. You would have to cope with my French accent but I think you’re used to it.

  • I love these in polka dots! Don’t think I would wear full overalls but I want to make an overall mini dress. Looking forward to seeing your shorts version!

    • Overall mini dress! Such a cute idea! I think I’m going to cut them out today, actually. I have this great black linen I’ve made a bunch of stuff with and I think I have enough yardage to squeeze out a pair.

  • These are gorgeous! You are totally rocking the dungaree’s

  • Jane

    So great to see these on someone with a few curves! I’ve only seen them before on beanpoles and whilst they look fab, it would be a mistake to imagine I would rock them in a similar manner! I love overalls and have gone through several stages of heavy overall wearing in the past, although as someone else commented, last time it was as maternity wear, so that makes me feel a bit strange about them now. But you’re starting to convince me….

    • I wasn’t sure I would like them one me but I think they look pretty good considering my sz 14 hips and butt! I think a slimmer version will work even better. I think you should go for it! Let’s make it the SUMMER OF OVERALLS!

  • Cara Banera

    Squeeeeeeee!!! My 13 year old self is rejoicing! Although yours look waaaaaaay chicer than mine did in my grade 7 photos. I wore my denim ones with a flannel plaid shirt, and one strap undone – natch. Bahahahah!!! I love your polka dot version though 🙂

    • Hahhaaha that is basically all I wore in 1994-95. With grody Converse sneakers and a REALLY terrible super short haircut.

  • sallieforrer

    These look so good!! I love the polka dot fabric, and the cropped leg! I spent a whole lot of my youth wearing an oversized pair of denim dungarees/overalls with baby tees and flannels and work boots, and I didn’t give up the look for a long time because it was really convenient for art school too – I think I might still be scarred! And oh my god I’m just now remembering a black velvet pair I had… you know… for special occasions! Actually… come to think of it, those were kind of cool… But the slight changes in the shape of the Turias really make this a totally different look so I think I just need to get over my phobia! I really love the slim look of Sasha’s version too – can’t wait to see what magic you wield with this pattern to take it to the next level!!

    • I would wear the shit out of some black velvet overalls. THE 90s REVIVAL HAS OFFICIALLY SCRAMBLED MY BRAIN.

    • Elisabeth McClure

      HA!! I totally had black velvet ones, too!! LOL I loved my overalls…and doc martens (my faves were these awesome gold low-top boots. Omg I still miss those.) I don’t know if I can get into wearing those overalls again, though. I have embraced the bodysuit idea, though, so who knows where this might lead me! LOL

  • The 90’s revival is infiltrating my soul too!! I want doc martens and daisy dresses!
    I think these look great and I can’t wait to see a distressed denim version too!

  • Amy

    So fun! I dig the polka dots. I had a super baggy pair of levi’s overalls (yeah, that’s midwestern speak) and wore them nonstop an entire summer with my black chucks and thrifted t-shirts. (1993?) I love their revival but I think I’d want to lady them up a bit… lace up sandals with a bodysuit underneath… I’m sorta on a Gloria Vanderbilt bodysuit kick… Can’t wait to see what you do with the next version!

  • that fabric is like the coolest ever!!!! I find your styling amazing Can’t wait to see the next version! I need to make a relaxed one myself – you can never have too many overalls.
    p.s thanks for the fierce part 😉 xx

  • honigdesign

    Loving this, you totally pull it off. The leg length with your ankle boots is perfect. ps The lighting in your pictures is fabulous…I so miss Canadian summertime……

  • char

    Love love love these – I have the pattern raring to go, just need to get cutting out!