This week we covered sewing a lapped zipper for our new pattern, the Jenny Overalls & Trousers. Today we’ll be showing you how to sew the tabbed waistband, since it’s a new construction method for us and has a bit of a choose your own adventure vibe with all the options (ie. one hip zipper or two, with a bib or without). Let’s get into it!
SINGLE ZIPPER WAISTBAND
In this example we’re showing you the waistband without the bib and one hip zipper; you may want to skip down to the section on sewing two zippers to see how the waistband works with the bib. As we discussed in the fitting post, you’ll want to make a quick muslin to figure out if one or two zippers is necessary to make your Jenny’s easy to get on and off. Most people can get away with one zipper, and this is the waistband method you’ll use.
First, cut two single zipper waistbands (pattern piece P); the outer waistband will be interfaced. We are demonstrating how to sew this waistband when the lapped zipper is installed on the right hip but it’s not a problem if you decided to install your zipper closure on the left hip instead. The same instructions apply, you will just flip the waistband so the tab is on the left side of the pants.
Press the bottom raw edge of the waistband facing in by 5/8″. This will make finishing the inside facing easier at a later step. Pin the facing to the outer waistband along the other long edge and sew together along this top seam at 5/8″.
Open the waistband and pin the interfaced outer waistband along the waist of the pants with right sides together. Start by aligning the notch next to the pointed tab to the right front side seam, and continue along the waist matching the center front, left side seam, and center back notches. The single zipper waistband is drafted a little longer than necessary in case you need a little extra length. The end of the waistband should extend past the fly extension at the back right side seam. Sew the waistband to the pants at 5/8″ and press the seam allowance up towards the waistband.
Turn the waistband inside out and pin it closed along the short sides. You may find it helpful to draw in your stitch line around the pointed tab so you know when to turn your work. We used a seam gauge to draw our stitch guide along the seam allowance of the point of the waistband. To sew around the pointed tab, you will need to unfold the folded seam allowance of the facing and outer waistband. Pin the seam allowance to keep it in place.
You can also draw in your stitch line on the other end of the waistband. The pressed seam allowance of the facing and waistband will be folded up and you will sew a straight line perpendicular to the waistband lining up with the edge of the fly shield.
To sew around the front waistband tab, start at the top edge of the waistband and sew along your guideline. Keep your needle down when you reach a corner and carefully turn your work.
Stop sewing when you reach the edge of the front leg and backstitch to secure.
When both ends of the waistband have been sewn closed, trim down your corners around the pointed edge of the waistband tab and grade your seams.
Using a point turner, turn the waistband right side out and press well.
Pin the facing in place around the inside of the waistband so that the seam is concealed.
To secure the waistband facing in place, you can either topstitch around the entire perimeter of the waistband from the right side of the pants, or you can slipstitch the facing to the waist from the inside of the pants. For our denim shorts sample, we used a white topstitching thread and a longer stitch length to match the rest of the topstitching on the garment. We started the topstitching just above the zipper on the back leg so the beginning and end of the stitch line would be concealed by the front waistband tab.
Keep your needle down when you need to turn a corner.
And voila, a cute tabbed waistband for a single zipper closure!
To finish, sew a buttonhole on the tab of the waistband, and either install a jeans button or sew a button in the corresponding end of the waistband.
DOUBLE ZIPPER WAISTBAND (WITH OVERALLS BIB)
If you installed a lapped zipper at both the right and the left hip, you will use the front and back double zipper waistbands (pattern pieces Qa and Qb). You will cut two of each waistband piece from your main fabric. The outer waistband pieces will be interfaced and the non-interfaced pieces will be the facings.
We’ll start with the front waistband. With right sides together, pin the outer front waistband to the front of the pants, matching the side seam and center front notches. The pointed tabs on either end of the front waistband will extend past the side seams. Sew and press the seam allowance up.
Pin the overalls bib to the top edge of the waistband, matching the center of the bib to center front. When you are pinning the sides of the overalls bib, keep your stitch line in mind- the sides of the bib should not extend past the side seam notches. Baste the overalls bib in place along the top edge of the outer waistband within the seam allowance.
Fold and press one long raw edge of the front waistband facing in by 5/8″.
Pin the waistband facing to the outer front waistband along the top and sides, sandwiching the overalls bib between the layers. At this point you may find it helpful to draw a stitch guideline around both tabs of the front waistband so you know when to turn your corners. This is particularly helpful making sure the tabs look symmetrical when you are sewing a double zipper waistband! To sew around the tabs, the seam allowances of the outer waistband and facing will need to be folded down.
Sew the facing to the waistband, starting at the right front side seam. Keep your needle down to turn the corners, then sew the top edge of the waistband. Sew around the left tab and backstitch just before the edge of the left front leg to secure.
Trim around each of the pointed front waistband tabs and grade your seams. Turn the front waistband right side out with the help of a point turner and press well. The overalls bib and straps will be pressed up and away from the waistband.
You can secure the facing in place by either topstitching around the perimeter of the front waistband, or by slip-stitching the bottom folded edge in place from the inside. For our striped overalls sample we wanted a clean finish to balance the stripes, so we slip-stitched the facings by hand.
We will repeat the same steps for the back waistband. Pin the interfaced outer waistband to the back of the pants, matching the notch at center back. The sides of the back waistband should extend past the fly shields at either side seam. Sew at 5/8″ and press the seam allowance up.
With right sides together, pin the overalls straps to the top seam of the back outer waistband. The angled edge of the strap should be parallel with the waistband, and the straps should be centered over the back dart of each leg. Baste in place and try on your overalls to confirm the angle and placement of the straps.
Press the bottom edge of the back waistband facing in by 5/8″, and pin the back facing to the back outer waistband with right sides together. The overalls straps will be sandwiched between the layers.
To sew the facing to the outer waistband, start stitching at the edge of the fly shield on one side. The pressed seam allowances of the outer waistband and facing will remain folded up.
Trim the corner of either end of the waistband and grade your seams before turning the back waistband right side out. Press and secure the facing in place using the same method you applied for the front waistband.
Sew a button hole on each tab of the front waistband and either install a jeans button or sew a button on each side of the back waistband.
And that’s it! We love this tabbed waistband for adding a little something extra at the waist area. Any questions? Let us know!