Pockets are unarguably the most important feature of any garment, but they are essential for a jacket destined for a maker. Just think of how many times you’ve gotten up from your sewing machine and gone to press something, and that seam gauge hasn’t been handy. With our Sienna Maker Jacket you will now have a zillion pockets, and will no longer have to re-trace your steps searching for missing tools!
Let’s get started! Transfer the pocket location marking from your pattern to your fabric pieces. Here are the front pieces for View C. We’ve marked my two front pocket locations and breast pocket match points with tailor’s tacks, but feel free to use your preferred marking tool. The extra thread tacks are for the collar and lapel match points, and the buttonhole locations. If you are sewing from the Sienna Maker Jacket in sizes 14-30, sew your bust darts first. This post on how to sew darts should have you covered if you’re looking for tips!
Prepare the pocket pieces. For View C, there are two front pockets and one breast pocket. The notches indicate the fold line.
Depending on your fabric, you may choose to finish the inside raw edges of your pocket pieces to prevent fraying. The top edges will be folded under, so we’ve serged the remaining edges. Press the top edge of each pocket piece down at the notches.
Fold the raw edge under to meet the first fold line and press again.
Topstitch the folded pocket edge in place 1/2″ from the finished edge, then fold the remaining raw edges of each pocket under by 3/8″. If any corners will peek out from the outside of the pocket, you may trim them or miter the corners.
Pin the pockets in place on the jacket fronts, using the match points as a guide. You may want to use a ruler to ensure the front pockets are evenly spaced above the hem and equal distance from center front. This will help ensure they look symmetrical when you hem your finished garment. If you are sewing bust darts, you may want to tweak the breast pocket location to cover the dart tip if that’s your preference.
Topstitch each pocket in place 1/8″ around the outer edges, backstitching at beginning and end. If you are using a triple stitch like we did, learn the rhythm of your machine’s stitch and go slow when you approach a corner so you don’t stitch too far! Here is what the View C front pieces will look like:
VIEW A & B
If you are sewing View A or B, the steps are similar, but you will also have the inside pocket. If you are finishing the raw edges of the pockets with either a serged or zig zag stitch, it is not necessary to finish the outer edge of the front pockets (pattern piece P) since they will be enclosed in the side seams.
Fold the top edges under at the notches and press the raw edge under to meet the fold line. Topstitch the folded edges in place at 1/2″ and press the remaining raw edge in by 3/8″. Again, it is unnecessary to fold in the outer edges of the front pockets since they will be enclosed in the side seams later.
A small triangle of seam allowance may be visible at the top pointed corner of the front pockets from the outside. Fold the triangle under so it won’t be visible from the right side and press.
Pin the inside pocket to the wrong side of the right jacket front and topstitch in place 1/8″ from outer edge. As we mentioned, there are a zillion possibilities for topstitching options for your Sienna Maker Jacket. Keep in mind that the bobbin side of your inside pocket stitching will be visible from the right side of the jacket.
Pin and topstitch the breast pocket to the left jacket front at the corresponding match points. Stitch in place all the way around at 1/8″, backstitching at the beginning and end. For this pocket alone, you may want to sew a secure “triangle” at the top edge (similar to what we instruct here).
Pin the front pockets to the left and right jacket fronts, positioning the pocket at the match points and aligning the outer edges with the side seams. These pockets will not lay flat against the jacket – this is normal. When they are stitched in place you will have a roomy pocket bag to fill with all your crafty maker things!
Sew a first line of topstitching 1/8″ away from inner and bottom edges, then sew a second line of topstitching 1/4″ away from the first line. Base the remaining edge in place within the 5/8″ seam allowance along the side seams.
Here is what the View A or B jacket fronts will look like when the pockets have been sewn in place. This is officially a jacket made for a maker!