Sewing Hip Pockets // Blanca Flight Suit Sewalong

The Blanca Flight Suit Sewalong continues with assembling the fully lined hip pockets, which will double as belt loops. To begin, ensure the topstitching line from the outer hip pocket pattern piece (P) is transferred to your fabric. I’ve used a thread tack to mark this line, but feel free to use your usual removable marking tool. If you are using a thick fabric, cut the hip pocket lining (Q) from a lighter lining fabric. If you are using a lightweight fabric, you can cut the hip pocket lining from your main fabric; this works well for fabrics like linen or tencel.

Blanca Flight Suit Sewalong // Sewing Patch Hip Pockets with Lining // Closet Case Patterns

Right sides together, pin the hip pocket lining to the outer hip pocket, slightly stretching the lining to fit. The lining is drafted slightly smaller than the outer pocket so that when the pocket is turned right side out, the lining will roll to the inside.

Blanca Flight Suit Sewalong // Sewing Patch Hip Pockets with Lining // Closet Case Patterns

Sew around the pocket at 1/2″ (13mm), leaving the side of the pocket open. If you followed our Kalle Shirtdress sewalong, we shared a nifty trick for sewing sharp collar points which is really helpful here too! As you approach a corner, shorten your stitch length. At the corner, leave your needle down and pull a long piece of thread between the fabric layers. Take one stitch, sewing over the thread tail. With the needle down, pull the other end of the thread around the needle. Pull the two ends of the thread out of the way and keep sewing. Repeat for each corner.

After you’ve sewn the lining and outer pocket together, grade your seams and clip the curves as necessary (the lining is what should be graded, not the body fabric). Trim the corners, but be careful not to cut into your stitching or to snip through the thread tail you’ve sewn into the stitch. Turn the pocket right side out.

Blanca Flight Suit Sewalong // Sewing Patch Hip Pockets with Lining // Closet Case Patterns

Gently pull on the thread tails to help shape the corners. If sewing in the thread tails was too fiddly for you, use a point turner. Give the pocket a good press. Try to roll the lining to the wrong side of the pocket so that when the pocket is sewn to the front of the flight suit, the lining won’t be visible.

Blanca Flight Suit Sewalong // Sewing Patch Hip Pockets with Lining // Closet Case Patterns

Sew a row of topstitching 1/2″ (13mm) from the curved edge of the hip pocket.

Blanca Flight Suit Sewalong // Sewing Patch Hip Pockets with Lining // Closet Case Patterns

Position the hip pocket on the front of the flight suit and pin in place (or use a glue stick just on the edges). Align the corners of the pocket to the circle markings on the bodice and front leg, and match the notches at the hip. The pocket should be parallel to the center front of the bodice before the crotch starts to curve. The waist seam should be centered between the stitch guide you marked on the pocket and the top edge of the pocket.

Blanca Flight Suit Sewalong // Sewing Patch Hip Pockets with Lining // Closet Case Patterns

To start, topstitch across the top short edge of the pocket at 1/8″ (3mm), backstitching at beginning and end. Sew a second horizontal line of topstitching parallel to the first at the marked line you marked earlier. These two rows of topstitching will form a channel for the belt to go through, so there must be at least 1.5″ (38mm) between them. The waist seam should be centered between the two lines.

Blanca Flight Suit Sewalong // Sewing Patch Hip Pockets with Lining // Closet Case Patterns

Starting precisely at the bottom horizontal topstitching line, topstitch 1/8″ (3mm) around the two straight edges of the pocket. If you sew along the entire side you won’t be able to get your belt through!

Blanca Flight Suit Sewalong // Sewing Patch Hip Pockets with Lining // Closet Case Patterns

Sew a second row of topstitching 1/4″ (6mm) inside the first row.

Blanca Flight Suit Sewalong // Sewing Patch Hip Pockets with Lining // Closet Case Patterns

Baste the side of the pocket in place at the hip within the seam allowance. Sew a short bar tack at each end of the topstitching at the belt loop to reinforce it. When you attach the pocket for the other side of the flight suit, ensure the placement is symmetrical so you don’t end up lopsided!

Blanca Flight Suit Sewalong // Sewing Patch Hip Pockets with Lining // Closet Case Patterns

Next up: sewing the center front zipper.

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Hi! I'm Heather Lou, a pattern designer and sewing educator for the modern maker. At Closet Case Patterns, we transform your imagination into step-by-step implementation that helps you create a wardrobe you love - not one you're limited to buying off the rack.

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