If you are sewing a lined Kelly Anorak, in this post we will cover how to assemble and attach your outer sleeves (for the unlined version see this post).
With right sides together, match your top and bottom outer sleeves along the seam with the single notch. Sew, press seam towards top sleeve, and finish the seam allowance using your preferred method.
Repeat for the other sleeve seam. It can be more difficult to top-stitch the second seam once your sleeve has been sewn into a full tube, but it is possible! Start from one end of the sleeve with the sleeve turned inside out. Go very slowly and re-adjust after every few stitches when you get close to the end.
After both sleeves are assembled, sew two rows of basting stitches within the seam allowance around the sleeve cap.
With right sides together, match the sleeve to the sleeve opening of the jacket. Pull on your basting stitches to gather the sleeve cap and ease it in to the arm opening. Make sure you catch the pleat of the back yoke with your pins or clips to secure it in the seam.
Sew the sleeve to the jacket and press towards the arm away from the jacket body.
For our waterproof lined Kelly Anorak sample, we trimmed this armhole seam allowance down so we could finish it with our iron-on seam tape.
It was a bit of a challenge pressing the seam tape around this 3D curved edge. We used a combination of our tailor’s ham and sausage to help manipulate the surface, and we ironed an inch or two of tape on at a time. The sleeve openings are one of the key places where it’s important not to extend the seam tape too far past a seam allowance, or you’ll have too many layers of fabric and seam tape at certain points.
Once your sleeves are set in, you can start to assemble your lining as directed in this post.