Southport Dress by True Bias in Rayon Challis // Closet Case Files
Sewing Projects

RAYON CHALLIS SOUTHPORT DRESS BY TRUE BIAS

No, we’re not having a heat wave in Montreal, and no, I am not the kind of rugged/crazy Canadian stock who walks around in short sleeves when all the leaves are brown and the sky is grey. What I am is horribly behind in all my planned blog posts for the last month or two. Travelling seriously messes with your ability and/or desire to keep on top of things;  hence a post about a summer dress in the middle of October. Bare with me, please (get it? Bare?! Oh Heather is feeling punny today!)

Apologies for anyone who missed the weekly Sewing Blog roundup on Sunday. I was in upstate New York teaching a Ginger Jeans class at Camp Workroom Social and the wifi was intermittent at best. To be honest, I ran my keister off for 3 days straight and didn’t even remember I had failed to write the post until we were basically on the bus home. I’d love to talk about that experience on another day, so for now, let’s focus on one of the more popular indie pattern releases this year, The Southport Dress from True Bias.

Southport Dress by True Bias in Rayon Challis // Closet Case FilesSouthport Dress by True Bias in Rayon Challis // Closet Case Files Southport Dress by True Bias in Rayon Challis // Closet Case Files Southport Dress by True Bias in Rayon Challis // Closet Case Files

Kelli sent me the pattern when she released it, but I didn’t have a chance to make it up until summer was almost over. I used some printed challis I picked up at Globetex over the spring; it’s an interesting print, somewhere between ikat and a Scandinavian folk design. I also think it’s the perfect choice for a dress like this; with the drawstring waist and not a whole lot of shaping, you want as much rayony or silky drape as possible.

I preferred the maxi right off the bat, but made the shorter version as a sort of wearable muslin before I sacrificed the yardage to the full skirt. If memory serves, I made an 8 and graded to a 10 at the waist but didn’t make any other adjustments.

Southport Dress by True Bias in Rayon Challis // Closet Case Files Southport Dress by True Bias in Rayon Challis // Closet Case Files

My thoughts? I like the fit through the bust, and appreciate the depth of the scoop neckline (I’ve never been too concerned about modesty). It doesn’t bother me when I’m wearing the dress, but in these photos I’m wondering if the arm opening is perhaps a 1/2″ too low on me; an easy fix I can make in my next version.

Because of the gathering, there is a lot of fabric around my waist and lower back. It’s currently a little more blouson than I would like, but I suspect if I made up the maxi, the weight of the fabric would pull the waist down and lay a little flatter against my body. I could also try removing a little length from the bodice, since my natural waist may be higher than Kelli’s block.

It was a pretty simple sew; I forgot to get gut shots but I just used some commercial single fold bias tape to finish the neckline and armholes. As usual, the instructions were thorough and made construction easy.

Southport Dress by True Bias in Rayon Challis // Closet Case Files

I currently have the Sutton blouse cut out, and will probably assemble it at the same time I make my Roscoe dress this season. I found the most delicious cobalt, white and black silk print at Mood last week and I can’t wait to rock the boho shorter dress version. We may be friends, but I am also a fan. Kelli always nails modern, urban silhouettes.

Did you make the Southport dress this year? Tell me about it!