We are all about a good hack over here. Maxing out on the possibilities of a pattern is not only economical (two for the price of one!!) it also builds your skill sets as a sewist and potential pattern drafter. If you can dream it up and sew it, chances are someone already did! The Jasika Blazer and its accompanying Speed Tailoring Course can be merely a jumping off point for whatever kind of jacket you would like to make. Once you have got a handle on the basics of tailoring there are endless variations of bespoke details you can experiment with. If you are anything like me, this prospect is both a little daunting and very exciting. We thought we would compile a few of the changes you could make to the Jasika Pattern to hack it into the jacket of your dreams. We tell you what pattern pieces will be affected and a rough guideline but the rest is up to you! Sound fun? Let’s jump in.
DOUBLE BACK VENTS
The double back vent, or the English Style Jacket as it’s called in men’s tailoring, was created for being on horseback. The range of movement (especially when seated) allows the jacket to spread and lay flat and thereby avoiding creasing and wrinkling. This is a good option for ladies with a little extra on the back (juice in the caboose, junk in the trunk etc.) as it allows your jacket to spread over your curves. Or if you plan on doing a lot of sitting (on a plane, at work) this tends to survive better without creasing. It’s a fairly easy adaptation, here is what you need to change:
WORKING SLEEVE VENTS/BUTTONS
The Jasika is designed with optional sleeve buttons that are merely decorative but what if you want to open those sleeves up?? A few intrepid sewists tried this during the #blazerofglory challenge:
For a detailed tutorial on this, visit this great Threads article on adding a sleeve vent. Here are the adjustments you have to make to your pattern to achieve this:
One of the easiest style changes to make to the Jasika is the lapel. A peaked lapel is a typically formal option (a classic tux feature) and really changes the style of the blazer without a lot of fussy pattern drafting. A few sewists did this adjustment while making their jackets.
How to do the same:
TURN IT INTO A COAT
Lengthening the blazer into a coat is a super easy way to create a whole new piece without changing much on the pattern. Essentially all you have to do is lengthen below the pockets to the hem. The back vent will function the same.
Double breasted suits are having a MOMENT right now. A bit of an 80’s throwback, this style makes a great suit as in the case of this window pane example above. Again, there isn’t too much you need to change to adapt this, the instructions will be the same and the lining can remain the same. Easy Peasy!
This was probably the most requested adaptation of the blazer that we encountered. Basically, you want to remove all the shapey curving we added to the pattern. You can try sizing up for a slouchier fit, but you may want to keep the shoulder width the same for your size.
Have some fun! Play designer! As styles and trends change you can adapt your basic pattern to make whatever piece is missing from your wardrobe. And remember: MAKE A MUSLIN! Don’t forget to show us your designs using the #jasikablazer hashtag.