Happy August everyone! Summer may be halfway over but there’s still plenty of time to make yourself a swimsuit if you’ve been thinking about it, and as further incentive, we’ve created a long line bikini top bonus download for our Sophie Swimsuit pattern. Although the pattern alterations are pretty easy to do yourself (and I covered it in our new online class), I thought I’d spare you some time and provide the modified pieces for you in case a long line Sophie bikini is in your future.
Originally I had drafted Sophie as a long line bustier, but in order to make it work I realized it would require boning, which would be one more thing to have to source; in the end I went with a regular length bra style bikini top. Having said that, I made this wax print beauty for myself and it’s turned out to be my favourite sample to wear this summer. I absolutely love the proportion of the high waist bikini and long line top together – that little sliver of visible midriff is perfect!
The three pattern pieces affected are the cradle, wing and band, which are now 1 1/2″ longer than the original pieces; all three pieces have been updated and included in our downloadable PDF, from sizes 0-20. You can download the file from our Sewing Resource Library (you need to enter your email address below to get the password to this members-only area, where you can also download multiple fitting guides and all our free patterns).
LONG LINE CLOSURES
One thing to note is that since the back band is now much wider, you’ll need an alternative closure to the 1″ clasp we suggest for the regular bikini. Some potential options:
- Use 3 smaller clasps a la Emerald Erin.
- Split the back band into two individual pieces and then secure with two x 1″ clasps.
- Sew multiple tabs on each side of the band, sew a very long fabric tube, and create a lace up back. This is what I did!
It looks smashing from behind but its kind of pain to get in and out of so keep that in mind. To make sure the tabs were stabilized, I sewed a little bit of channeling underneath each folded edge of the bands to make sure everything stayed somewhat stabilized.
My issue with long line bras is their tendency to ride up the rib cage. To keep your long line Sophie in place, you’ll need to sew in a little channelling and then insert plastic boning along the side seams (this boning is what I used).
Most bras I’ve looked at sew the channeling on top of the elastic once it’s been sewn in, but I tucked everything underneath my folded elastic for a cleaner finish. It’s really up to you!
Otherwise construction is completely the same. Hope this was the push you needed if you wanted to make Sophie into a long line!