Oh jeans. Does anything strike more terror into the heart of a sewist than these two tubes of fabric? Sometimes I’m not sure if people are talking about jean fitting adjustments or the apocalypse, for all the fear and anxiety tied up in it. We all want our best fitting jeans, but here’s the thing…
Chill out. While I think it’s commendable that a lot of people strive for fit greatness, I think far too many of us get so caught up by drag lines that we can’t see the forest for the trees (or the jeans for our knees!) Nobody else is paying that much attention to the back of your thighs and you’re still looking better than you do in RTW, so just take a big, deep, cleansing breath and be okay with it not being 100% perfect. If you need a reminder of why perfection and fear will ruin your sewing, read this post and stop talking yourself out of trying new things or enjoying the things that you make.
Having said that, I did want to create a quick resource for common jean fitting adjustments you may need to make with your Morgan Jeans. Technically these will apply to any pattern so hopefully you will find this helpful for pants-making in general. If you’ve made the Ginger Jeans before, adjustments may vary this time around since the draft is so different (they are not based on the same block, if you were wondering).
My biggest piece of advice for non-stretch jeans is to actually wear your first pair for a full day before you come to any conclusions. Denim can relax a great deal and things you notice when you first try them on might become non-issues once you’ve stretched out your seams a bit. This is especially true with that back seat curve! I find it a smidge tight on my prodigious booty whenever I make a new pair, but its generally feels perfect after it loosens up after a few hours. Also keep in mind that Morgan does fit on the slim side (especially for the smaller sizes). I drafted them this way since non-stretch jeans can go up a whole size with a little wear. If you like a loose boyfriend jean, size up. Keep in mind that you may want to size up only through the hip and leg so they still hit at the right spot on your waist.
I’ve covered many of these adjustments for my Ginger Jeans fitting post, but I figured I’d go over everything again with more helpful graphics. In the technical flats on the left side of each graphic, I have highlighted the drag line in grey. On the right side, the fit adjustment is indicated by a pink dotted line. I’ve taken this advice from the books Pants for Real People, Fitting and Pattern Alteration and my own experience fitting dozens of women. Some of these alterations can be more involved than I show here, but these are quick and dirty tips to get the fit up to snuff without too much fuss.
SHORTEN CROTCH ADJUSTMENT
If you see lines radiating downwards from your front crotch, it is likely too long for you. Simply shave a little off your inseam on the front thigh. Work in 1/4″ increments – small adjustments make a huge difference here.
LENGTHEN CROTCH ADJUSTMENT
If you need a little extra room in the crotch, you’ll have diagonal “smile lines” radiating from your crotch. Add a little to your front inseam to lengthen your crotch curve.
ROUND PUBIS ADJUSTMENT (AKA CAMEL TOE)
Also known as a prominent pubic area, I fully admit that this is a weird name for a fit issue but it sounds better than “Oh camel toe” doesn’t it? If you find your pants cleaving to you in an unwelcome way (also manifested as vertical drag lines around the front crotch), simply scoop out that front crotch a little. It adds depth to the crotch curve, making more room for you. A 1/4″ or even 1/8″ can make a difference here.
FLAT PUBIS ADJUSTMENT
If your pubic bones is set a little further in, you may get horizontal wrinkles across the front crotch. Fixing this just means drawing a shallower crotch curve in, again working in 1/8″ to 1/4″ increments.
FULL TUMMY ADJUSTMENT
If you have a full tummy, you may see diagonal drag lines radiating from your stomach. The side seams may also come forward around the stomach, along with a little tightness in the crotch. To correct, slash along the center front to the hip and spread to add length and width through the abdomen area. You may also find you need to add a little length to the crotch curve by letting out the inseam.
FULL SEAT ADJUSTMENT
If you have a fuller bottom, you may notice drag lines all pointing to that back crotch seam and your back waistline may be tugged down. Essentially you need to add length and width to the backseat curve. The proper way to do this is by slashing and spreading in various spots to add length to the lower crotch extension and the center back, but you can also just add a little to the inseam and top seam as I am showing here (#quickanddirty). You may also find that you need a deeper seat curve – if you scoop out that curve more, please note you will have to add a little to the hip since you are removing width across the hip with this adjustment.
FLAT SEAT ADJUSTMENT
A flatter seat is indicated by bagginess under the bum and diagonal drag lines pointing to the hip. To correct it, try removing width from your inseam. You can also try shortening the overall length of the back rise by taking a wedge off the top (the proper way to do this is by slashing and spreading so that the top edge stays the same length).
LOW BUTT ADJUSTMENT
If the curve of your heiny sits a little lower than the pant has been drafted for, you’ll find horizontal drag lines under your seat. Simply scoop out that seat curve a little bit to make room for your bum.
SWAY BACK ADJUSTMENT
If you have a sway back, your pelvis tilts forward, forcing your bum out and creating a shorter distance between waist and top of the bum. This generally manifests in pooling or folds of fabric at the lower back. Fitting & Pattern Alteration has a complicated adjustment for this involving numerous slash and spread adjustments, but I think you can do a #quickanddirty adjustment by taking a wedge of the top pant (or folding out the amount from your pattern piece and redrawing your seams). I’ve also found that you can take a quick wedge off the CB (including the yoke) to prevent gaping if that is also an issue. This will change the pitch of the pants so keep that in mind!
FULL THIGH JEAN FITTING ADJUSTMENT
If you need more room in the thigh, your pants will tell you with diagonal drag lines or wrinkles pointing towards your crotch inseam. Extend your back crotch at the inner thigh to give yourself more room.
THIN THIGH ADJUSTMENT
If your thighs need less room, you should see vertical drag lines along the back of your thigh. Taking width off the back inseam will help; you may also need to remove a little from the front inseam as well.
FULL CALF ADJUSTMENT
If you’re spotting horizontal drag lines above the back of your knees, you will need more room in the calf. Cut your pattern as indicated and swing seams along your lower leg out to create more width along the back of your calf.
KNOCK KNEED ADJUSTMENT
If you’re a little knock kneed (possibly the cutest sounding fit issue) you may find that the fabric is tight along your inseam and looser at your side seam. You’ll notice diagonal drag lines radiating from along the side seam above and below the knee. With this adjustment you need a little more length at the inseam and a little less at the side seam. To achieve this, slash to a center point in the center of the thigh on either side and rotate the entire upper pant so that you are reducing the length along the side seam while slightly adding to the inseam.
BOW LEGGED ADJUSTMENT
Morgan is cut quite straight in the leg so if your knees bow out, you’ll notice drag lines radiating out from the side seam around your knee and calf. This is the exact opposite adjustment we made for the knock-kneed; you need more length on the side seam and less on the inseam. To achieve this, slash to a center point in the center of the thigh on either side and rotate the entire upper pant so that you are adding to the length of the side seam while reducing the length of the inseam.
Phew! Hope you find this helpful. Anything crucial I missed or helpful suggestions you can add?