Clare Coat Pattern // View B // Closet Case Files
Closet Case Patterns


Wheee! After months of development (including making and steaming wool coats in the middle of August while trying not to die of heat stroke) the Clare Coat Pattern is here!

Clare Coat Pattern // View A // Closet Case Files

I absolutely LOVE coat making and specifically designed this pattern to be approachable and achievable for all sewing levels, so that even the beginner sewist could discover how much fun it is to make outerwear, with enough interesting details and techniques to keep it interesting for the more advanced maker. Clare features a two piece raglan sleeve and an easy fitting A-line silhouette, which means no complicated tailoring skills or setting-in-sleeves required. It comes together relatively quickly, and I think features my best, most thorough instructions yet.

I had a lot of fun designing the details of this pattern, and came up with two major variations for two very different style vibes.

View B is 60’s inspired with princess sleeves, welt pockets and a face framing funnel collar, while the exposed asymmetrical zipper integrated into the seam line brings it into this century. This was the jump-off point for me with this pattern; it’s actually inspired by a vintage coat I’ve had for 10 years. I get stopped on the street every time I wear it and wanted to put my own spin on the silhouette.

Clare Coat Pattern // View A // Closet Case Files Clare Coat Pattern // View A // Closet Case FilesClare Coat Pattern // View A // Closet Case Files Clare Coat Pattern // View A // Closet Case Files

View A feels like an elegant “dressed up” coat, especially in a bright jewel-toned wool. It provides a great oppurtunity to play around with hardware and fun details like zipper tassels.

Clare Coat Pattern // Welt Pocket // Closet Case Files

Fully lined, this coat looks as great inside as it does out, and I love the modern way it looks when it’s left undone.

Clare Coat Pattern // Closet Case FilesClare Coat Pattern // View A // Closet Case Files

Because I love giving you guys as many options as possible, I also developed a substantially different variation. View B is much more minimalist and modern in feeling; it reminds me of a classic Max Mara coat with its dramatic collar, inseam pockets and full length sleeves. Ending at the hip rather than mid-thigh, the asymmetrical closure is replaced with a classic double-breasted coat front; while you can certainly play with special buttons and/or bound buttonholes, I love the clean, simple look of an oversize sew-in snap button.

Clare Coat Pattern // View B // Closet Case FilesClare Coat Pattern // Funnel Collar // Closet Case FilesClare Coat Pattern // Back view // Closet Case Files

The collar is definitely my favourite feature; wear it done up to block out the cold, or leave it open to frame your pretty face.

Clare Coat Pattern // View B // Closet Case FilesClare Coat Pattern // Funnel Collar // Closet Case Files

It’s also possible to merge the collars; one of my testers did a mash-up of View A with the View B collar and it looked awesome.

Because coat-making is unfairly perceived as being “hard” (it isn’t! Pinky swear!) I am also going to be hosting a sewalong for this pattern so I can walk you through the entire process from beginning to end. I will announce the schedule later this week, and it will start shortly thereafter. It will likely be at a fairly rapid pace as I’d like you all to have finished coats before the holidays!

And SO EXCITING, this pattern is available in print and PDF (en Francais aussi!) Since I’ve only just started doing wholesale, I don’t currently have any stockists for my international customers, so for at least for the next week or so you’ll only be able to get printed patterns in my shop. Lest we forget, the Ginger Jeans, Carolyn Pajamas and Nettie Dress & Bodysuit are also available in print format!

One thing I’d like to note: we noticed a minor error in one of the pattern pieces after it had been printed (naturally, sigh). The collar piece for View A was incorrectly mirrored, so the notches on the paper pattern are incorrect (we fixed it in the PDF version). Each paper pattern booklet includes a download link for the updated piece, and a digital version will also be available to you after checkout. I would like to mention that the piece as is is still usable (the shape is correct), it just needs to be installed slightly differently, so if you’re comfortable putting it in without notches, you don’t need to print the new piece.

On to the illustrations! Here’s what Sallie Oh’s magic hands made for Clare:

Clare Coat Sewing Pattern // Cover illustrations by Sallie Oh // Closet Case Files

Like always, this pattern has a sewing muse.  Clare from Sew Dixie Lou has style I’ve long admired; chic and polished with an edge, vintage and modern in perfect balance… basically, ineffable British cool at its finest. She’s also a lovely, lovely lady, a passionate vegetarian, an admirer of Elvis, an appreciator of dirty rock n’ roll, and one hip mum. I couldn’t imagine a more appropriately stylish lady to name this pattern after!

I really hope you’ll enjoy braving the elements with Clare! Let me know if you have any questions about the pattern in the comments below!

  • MarjeAksli

    Lovely! Very beautiful…

  • Stirling Allred



      • Stirling Allred

        I like you. <3

  • Kara Mucha

    I think I just drooled on my iPad – that magenta coat is perfection! Nice work!

  • Beautiful! But can’t decide which version to make. Might have to do both!

  • Omg. I may actually be almost hyperventilating a little with excitement. That magenta side zip version is one of the most clever looking patterns I’ve seen, I love that side zip detail and that smooth front. I need another coat like I need a hole in my head (especially as I have 2 coatings waiting to become coats already), but this might have to do some serious queue jumping. I’m hoping the SAL will include some winterizing tips for us cold-weather climate gals (since you are one too)! 😉

    • That made me so happy to read that Tasha, thank you 🙂 Definitely covering the warmth aspect, don’t worry!

  • Hélène

    Great work, Heather Lou – what a perfect coat! This pattern is going to be a hit. I would even consider the asymetrical zipped version sewn in a light wool as a dress.

    • That is such a marvellous idea!

      • I thought the same thing when I saw the pattern! We could be twins 🙂

  • K_Line

    This is FANTASTIC!

  • Lindsey

    The idea of mashing up the tall collar with the side zip sounds DIVINE. Please address this in the sewalong!

  • Kalle Thompson

    Lovely! Wow, to say you’re a busy gal seems to be an understatement!

    • Hahaha I need about ten naps, one right after the other.

      • Kalle Thompson

        well, after you’re all charged back up, perhaps a winter coat workshop is in order… 😉

  • Oh man, I love a dramatic collar. The more warmth I can bury my face in the better — and it just looks so damn cool. Great job!

  • Mandy Varelis

    Darn you Heather! I just lined up projects to finish off my wool coating stash, and you go and release this beauty! View B looks so much like a coat I loved but grew out of and gave away last year that I simply must make it. I need to move back east to wear all these coats I have planned.

    I can’t wait to start seeing this coat paraded over the blogosphere, another beautiful design from you. Congratulations!

    • Oops! Sorry Mandy 😉 And thank you for the kind words.

  • Gorgeous! I want to make View A immediately!

    When you do fabric recommendations in the sewalong, could you include a non-wool option? Or, perhaps we can crowdsource this – how does one make a sturdy winter coat if she’s allergic to wool?

    • Absolutely! You could definitely make it with any sturdy woven with body, like denim, twill, canvas etc.

      • i was also tempted to make one up in upholsery fabric but I never had a chance!

  • Veronik

    Very, very nice. If only I had seen it before cutting into my double cloth…

    • SORRY VERONIK. I’ll bring you a copy next time I see you.

  • angelac

    LOVE!!!!! Just plain ol’ love at first sight. I don’t even need to wear coats often, but oh, I must make this. Count me in!!

    • That’s so lovely to hear! If you’re gonna make a coat, might as well make this fancy one 😉

  • Yay congrats!

  • Mrs. Smith

    I’m surprised at how much I like it! No offense! LOL!!!!

    I made a deep pink/magenta coat this spring and it is seriously the best thing ever. So I know you are loving it! Hmmm, I have a black/white herringbone… 🙂

    • Haha no offense taken! And B&W herringbone would be SO lovely.

      • Mrs. Smith

        Thanks. LOL! I was hoping you’d get my meaning!

        Like, I am enthralled! ENTHRALLED!!!!! Thinking Hmm…I do have a whole week off at Christmas…

  • You’ve killed it with this one! View A is so dressy and special, and View B looks so classic and wearable. I could totally make space for both in my closet. Congrats!

    • Thank you Katie! So happy you like them and SO happy they’re finally released.

  • Camelia de Bruin

    I love both your versions, BOTH, hahah I really do ! I love the Clare ! And yes it is such an easy coat to make with a great result , great instructions too. Congratulations on a great pattern!

  • Wow, this pattern is gorgeous! I am a bit intimidated to make a coat but maybe I will get over it with your sew along. LOVE it!

    • No reason to be intimidated! It’s not hard, It’s actually really fun, especially if you’re working with wool because it just loves the steam.

  • Kerry

    The mini book on jeans and now this all in one day? Here Heather-Lou, just take my charge card and my first born. I was given the most beautiful piece of Italian alpaca wool in lavender and I now know what it will be!

    • This made me laugh so hard. And a lavender Clare? Be still, heart.

  • Michelle Rose

    Yay!!! As a tester, I’m so happy to see this pattern finally released. I can vouch for how great the instructions are for this pattern and what a nice coat you’ll end up with at the end. This is a GREAT pattern for someone who is new to coat-making (or has maybe made one or two and not been thrilled with her earlier results).

  • Utterly gorgeous! I like them both but I especially love the second version. I actually have the perfect fabric in my stash for this but it will have to wait as I’m Southern hemisphere and summer is upon us!

    • Thank you Kate! Always so funny how you guys are always on the opposite schedule. If North America and Australia were women, our cycles would sync up.

  • Nuala

    Oh man, I love this! I just bought a coat pattern the other day and now I need this one too! But, y’know what?…it’s cold in Scotland and I need many coats. I especially want one in camel just like view B

  • Oh my godddddd. View A is way too chic for a weirdo me, but I am in LOVE with view B. And I don’t even need a coat because Texas. But I’m gonna make one anyway, because if I’m gonna make my first coat, I want you holding my hand for it!

    • Hahahahaha. I think View B would look great on you! It coan also be less “hot” if you use denim or canvas or something too.

  • THIS IS AMAZING! I am very disapointed we are in summer in AUS. But she will be on my winter capsule list for sure!

  • Omg, that magenta coat- love it!

    • I’m too scared to wear it outside hahaha. It’s one of the best constructed things i’ve ever made. I gotta get ove rit though.

  • Gorgeous coat Heather. Well done.

  • {{{GASP}}} Your new pattern reveal should have been prefaced with a warning: My cause heart palpitations! I love both versions!

  • Carly

    Is the tester with the side zip and larger collar going to post photos? I think that’s the version I want to make. Because that sounds AMAZING.

    • I’ll try and share that! It looks so dope.

  • lauren

    Honestly every time you make a new pattern its better than the last. I can’t believe how unique and just amazing this. I have a HUGE problem now because I want to make both, and that’s a lot of coat!

  • Damn! I love the tassel on the zip! Congrats and best wishes and all that good stuff. Got an idea for a Marimekko spring version, with matching hat, natch.
    Hey, nice shoe styling! 😉

  • Monserratt Lopez

    What a lovely coat! <3 beautiful colors, fit and pictures! <3 Congratulations Heather!

  • Helene

    Amazing as always, Heather! Since you made me believe that I could first, sew a bathing suit, then second, I could sew jeans, now I believe you that I can sew a winter coat too! Thank you, can’t wait! Congratulations on your hard work and talent!

    • WHEEEE! That’s such a gratifying thing to hear! And you can absolutely 100% make a coat!

  • Kristen

    Lovely coats! Could you tell us how many pages the PDF is? It will help me decide which version I want!


    • Its not a small file, haha. View A is 80 pages and View B is 70 pages.

      • Kristen

        Ouch! I think the paper version is the way to go. Thanks!

  • Kaoru Marie

    I was so excited when you first mentioned you were releasing a coat pattern and you definitely did not disappoint. I love, love, love this!!! I cannot wait to make it!

    • I think this coat would look FABULOUS on you Kaoru!

  • Nadeen

    Terrific timing! I will be shopping for fabric this weekend. Both versions are must-makes, and the mash-up you described might make a third. I’ve never made a coat, but I think now’s the time! Thank you!

    • Awesome to hear Nadeen! Glad to have you aboard 😉

  • Kathryn

    RIGHT. I have waiting all day for chance to check your site for the new pattern, and Lo, it is AWESOME. I have been wanting a coat that feels like wearing a blanket for some time, and couldn’t come up with a design that felt quite right to me. View B is exactly what I had in mind. So comfy-looking, so simple, so perfect for the zany-ass fabric I have in my stash. Thanks for the excellent work, madam, and cannot wait for my pattern to arrive. I will be participating in a sew-along for the first time ever! So exciting!

    • Yay! So happy you like it Kathryn! Blanket coats for the win!

  • Amy

    How wonderful to finally see this project come to reality, all complete with your new packaging. The coat was always a great idea, but this is BRILLIANT execution. That fuchsia wool is to die for. And now I’m tempted… I’ve been saving 4 yards of camel-colored 100% cashmere for 5 years. (The most expensive fabric I’ve ever purchased.)

      DO IT

  • Congratulations on another fab pattern 🙂

  • Kata

    Love them both! I’m looking a great pattern to my mothers coat… So I have to show her this, maybe she likes it as much as I do.

  • Congratulations Heather! Another amazing pattern! Can’t wait to make it!

  • Sara

    Is is possible to combine the patterns, if I want the arms of nr. 2 but make version nr 1?

    • Of course! There is only one sleeve piece – you decide teh length, and all teh fabric requirments include enough for the longer sleeve.

  • This is totally surprising to me as I’m usually more of a pea coat/trench coat kind of girl, but I’m totally in love with view A. I just want to go skipping down Carnaby street in it!

    • It’s got a lighthearted energy thats for sure! I like a fitted coat as well, but there is something kind of fresh about a looser silhouette.

  • I love both versions! I like view B with the collar up particularly, and view A is gorgeous! Congratulations on another great pattern!

  • Sandra

    Haha! Funny story: I’m just in the planning and designing stage of a new winter coat (but need to get going very soon as winter is aproaching any time here in sweden, at least so I hope). And I’ve been sketching on a coat with raglan sleeves, slightly loose fitting but still with some shape, darts and a high collar or a hood. So I’ve considered what pattern(s) to use as a base and then modify (heavy modifying phew) to fit my ideas.
    And here you go and release this! :’D
    Feel like my project got a lot quicker right now.
    Whop whop

    • Great minds Sandra! Glad I saved you some drafting time.

  • sallieforrer

    Eeeeeee!!! Holy crap girl!! What a HUGE couple of weeks for you!! First the paper patterns, then the E-book, and now your latest bomb-ass pattern?!? You need a vacation after this!
    And – Oh my god, your versions are killing me. I mean, I knew they were gonna be good – but they are SO good! You look so chic. That fuschia zipper tassel brings a tear of joy to my eye. I can’t wait to start seeing versions popping up on the blogs. <3

    • Well I am goimng to France for Christmas, does that count?! I wish I had documented making that tassel thing. It was too late at night and I was too tired 😉

  • Elisabeth M. Schoopp

    Super cool!

  • Wow! So chic and interesting! I might need one!

  • Your timing is so impeccable that I laughed out loud lol. Hopefully shipping doesn’t take long because I need this before December hits.

    • Shouldn’t be too bad… You’ll definitely get it before December, haha

  • Elizabeth Halpern

    Love it! What a lovely, wearable and super stylish coat pattern. A modern classic! I love the exposed zip AND the shorter version too. I can see this one made up in so many ways. I have a beautiful turquoise wool coating that’s been languishing in my stash for years, waiting for the “right” coat pattern. I think I just found it!

  • Lise Neely

    Love it, can’t wait to make one!

  • kellicousins

    This is gonna sound creepy as hell, but the views from the back are perfection. Especially in the camel, how you’ve got the perfectly-fitted raglan across the shoulders and the slight shaping around the waist? Fantastic, fantastic work!

    (And I really hope you cover how to fit raglan sleeves in the sew-along, since you’re clearly a MASTER. That is one fitting issue that I just cannot get my head around.)

    • Thanks so much Kelli! Not creepy at all, haha. I will definitely consult my fitting books for help with raglans….

  • Christine

    Hi Heather, do you have any stockists here in Montreal where I could pick up the printed pattern? I’m envisioning view B in a light grey wool, Olivia Pope style!

    • Not yet Christine! But it would only cost a few bucks to mail it to you….

      ps. Go to Tonitex for wool!

      • Christine

        Done! Thanks for the Tonitex tip, do they have a minimum purchase for fabrics? I’ve never been and their website says minimum 10 meters per roll.

        • No minimum orders when you’re in person! Last time I was there I think they had some Olivia Pope-esque gray, and they even had a bunch that was pre-block interfaced which cuts out a lot of prep time.

          • Christine

            Niiice! Time to drag the boyfriend fabric shopping this weekend!

  • Both of these are so beautiful!! I want to make an exactly copy of the pink one!! Just ordered a hardcopy!

    • Wheee! I’m shipping it out tomorrow 😉

  • Mariah

    Fabulous! I can’t wait to try it!

  • Anna

    The more I look at the pictures, the more I love both versions.They’re really growing on me!
    In sweden sell most independent patterns, it would be great if one could buy your printed patterns as well there.

    • I will get in touch with them! Thanks for the tip!

  • I love this coat! And may I say as well, excellent inspiration. I’d love to make view B with some dramatic embroidery along the zipper line.

  • Sølvi

    Good God, you´ve done it again! This is soooooo exciting. I want to make both. Like, right now. Congratulations on a fab pattern!

    • Thanks Solvi (I can’t make that accent on my computer!)

  • Laura McLeod

    Oh my goodness that giant collar makes me swoon. I am currently in the middle of my very first coating project, I had no idea another would hit my queue so soon!


      • Laura McLeod

        Words to live by.

  • Genevieve

    Order done!!! I cant wait…I am on a coat making binge of sorts. My closets are bursting, oh well whats another coat. This coat cannot be left out 😉 What do you think about using a medium to heavy weight quilted sweater knit???

    • That could be really cool! It depends on the weight I guess? You need something with a little body I think.

  • Jenny

    So sophisticated! I really like the styling and the killer heels! I’ve been looking for inspiration lately and this coat may inspire me to snap out of the sewing rut I’ve been in. Thank you for being so clever and awesome.:)

  • Congratulations! The sewing world would not be the same without you 🙂

  • Marie

    J’adore la version rose, je le vois bien en bicolore bleu marine pour le col et les manches et crème pour le reste
    I love it specially the purple version, would see it in 2 colors navy blue for the collar and sleeves and cream for the bodice
    I will order it soon waiting

    • Merci Marie! Est-ce que vous commandez le version papier ou PDF? Le version papier est en anglais, mais j’ai un transduction pour des instructions dans le PDF.

      • Marie

        je commanderai la version pdf en francais à la fin du mois,
        j’ai déjà Nettie que je n’ai pas encore faite.
        A bientot

  • CraftyHourMom

    Wow! I love both versions! I’ve had some chocolate brown melton *ahem* aging in my stash for nearly 10 years… I’ve never quite got up the nerve to cut into it! This may be the pattern. <3
    Can we see a roundup of the tester versions?

  • My my you have been busy – coat making in the middle of summer!! It’s gorgeous – and totally something I can see myself in come next winter with bubs in tow. I’m incredibly taken by that fuschia pink wool with the gold metal zip – divine. Love the shape and the proportions 🙂

  • Every pattern you release is bad a** SSB.

  • Erin Doolittle

    Hi. I’m cutting out the fabric and interfacing for version B. I just wanted to let you know that I have run into some issues. One, piece 23 is missing from the layout for the interfacing. The layout is not realistic for 20″ wide interfacing. If you take piece 24, for instance, it is well over 10 inches, so how could it fit when mirrored, as it is pictured on the layout? Piece 15 is shown mirrored with 13 between. There is no way that fits on a 20″ wide piece of interfacing. At least, I couldn’t make it work. It’s not the same of the world but I do now need to go buy more interfacing. Thanks for listening.