Closet Case Patterns


Apparently I just can’t get jeans out of my system. Today I’m happy to announce our new (and most requested!) sewing pattern: Morgan Boyfriend Jeans, now available in print and PDF!

You may have noticed that vintage Levi 501s and more relaxed fitting jeans are having a major resurgence and I’ve been all over it. While I still love my Ginger skinnies, there is something refreshing about the feeling of 100% cotton jeans; they mold to your body in a totally personal way, are extraordinarily comfortable once you’ve broken them in, and are a welcome alternative to the skin-tight silhouette we’ve all been wearing for the last ten years or so.

I’ve tried on dozens of pairs in search of the best fit and wanted  to design the perfect pair of 100% cotton jeans; slim without being tight, relaxed without being baggy. Boyfriend jeans that actually look good on girlfriends.

So without further ado…..

Morgan Boyfriend Jeans sewing pattern // Closet Case Files Morgan Boyfriend Jeans sewing pattern // Closet Case Files

Meet Morgan, slim boyfriend jeans designed for non-stretch & selvedge denim. Inspired by old school denim style but with a fresh, modern cut, Morgan Jeans are engineered to flatter.

Featuring a mid-rise, traditional five pocket construction, contoured waistband, tapered leg and button fly, Morgan fits snugly through the hip but relaxes and conforms to your curves with a little wear. Choose between a regular or cropped inseam, and add an optional leather waistband patch for a sly nod to designer denim.

Buy Morgan Jeans!

Morgan Boyfriend Jeans sewing pattern // Closet Case Files Morgan Boyfriend Jeans sewing pattern // Closet Case Files Morgan Boyfriend Jeans sewing pattern // Closet Case Files

This pattern went through 3 rounds of testing until we settled on a sizing model and silhouette that worked on as broad a range of body types as possible. Worn true to size, they are slim through the hip and thigh (although will relax considerably over the course of the day, as 100% cotton tends to do). They can also be worn sized down for a closer, more nostalgic fit, or sized up for an exaggerated boyfriend silhouette (for your reference, I’m wearing a straight size 14 in the blue sample and a size 14 hip with a size 12 leg in the black sample;  my hip measurement is 42″).

Morgan Boyfriend Jeans sewing pattern // Closet Case Files

While I’m not hosting a sewalong for this pattern (no need with my Sewing Your Own Jeans ebook and Ginger sewalong), I will be writing a  few unique to Morgan posts in the coming weeks that walk you through fitting, installing a button fly and most excitingly, aging and distressing your denim.



Buy a limited time only denim kit!

I am also thrilled to say that I’ve paired with Jenny at Workroom Social once again to bring you another amazing denim kit! This time we’ve chosen some really special non-stretch denims to go with your Morgan pattern: a deep indigo Cone Mills,  along with a distressed Italian denim in a hard to find medium wash. The kits include everything you need to make two pairs of jeans, including a print copy of the pattern. As per usual, this is a pre-sale, meaning we’ll start shipping after gathering our supplies in approximately 6-8 weeks. These kits always sell out very quickly due to limited supply so if you’d like to take all the guesswork out of making Morgan, I’d snap one up asap!



Buy a jeans-making notions kit!

But wait, that’s not all! I decided I wanted to make it as easy as possible for you to make your own jeans year-round, so we’re now permanently stocking jean-making notions kits in the shop. We’ve had all of our hardware custom made in three beautiful finishes; you can now purchase fly front or button fly kits in your choice of brass (a brushed gold colour), copper, or nickel (brushed silver). Each kit will make one pair of jeans, and includes jeans buttons, rivets, Schmetz denim needles and either a YKK zipper or 15mm button fly buttons, depending on what kit you choose.

Finally, I’d like to send out a big hug to my muse for this pattern, Morgan of Crab & Bee. One of my favourite makers, I’m continually inspired by her excellent taste and effortless, understated personal style. When I was thinking about this design in its infancy, she was always the person I strove to make happy in my  mind, and I can’t think of a better person to name this pattern after. Thank you Morgan!

I hope you like the new pattern! An questions or comments? I’ll get back to you below!

  • Well, I was firmly planted in the “only skinny jeans, ever” camp before now. I’m so excited about these! (And did you make that striped shirt?)

    • Come to the dark side hahaha! I still like skinnies but it’s just nice to have options. And they’re still slim fitting so its not like back to wide leg 90’s jeans. And yes, made teh top! It’s teh Tessuti Mandy Boat tee and I LOVE IT!

  • Those are way cool! I still have to make the pj’s then totally onto these!

  • Cadi

    I think this just jumped to the tippy-top of my To Make list, shoving everything else down a peg. So awesome! And loving the choices in your denim kits, too!

  • I am so delighted that you have created a non stretch denim jeans pattern! Rubbing off my 90’s era 501’s has been on my to-do list for a while. It’s nice to know there is a new pattern out there at fits the bill.

    • I’ll save you the work… and these will probably fit better too 😉

  • Finally IT HAS ARRIVED!!! I’ve worn my second tester pair from the moment I made them. LOVE EM SO!

  • WildFlowers

    True story: I spent the week-end wondering how I could make boyfriend Ginger Jeans with non-stretch denim. So I was super excited when I saw this pattern! I’m looking forward to making it, and I’ll probably enjoy the process as much as I did with my Gingers 🙂 Well done Heather!

    • So many people asked me how and I never had a good answer! Ginger is really a stretch fabric pattern in my mind… happy I’m on your brainwave 😉

  • AWESOME! Congrats on another beautiful + brilliant pattern launch, Heather. My Gingers are, far and away, my most worn make. They’re nicely, naturally distressed after years of weekly wearing. I’m into the more relaxed fit and feel of vintage Levi’s, but it sure is tricky to find a great fit (read: fits at the waist, doesn’t squash the bum). Sure looks like these beauties will fit the bill. Can’t wait to get my kit in the mail & give em a go.

    • Well, Levis 501s are designed for men so they’re SUPER straight in the waist and hips. You really need to have specific proportions to pull them off. I’ve been experimenting with stonewashing and distressing so hopefully I’ll have some fun results to at least get the look…

  • Excitement! These are gorgeous. I’ve been looking for a style just like this.

    • So happy to hear that Bella! Happy to be of service 😉

  • Jo Laycock

    Not a fan of skinny jeans but these gorgeous boyfriends have given me the push I need to have a go at making my own! Looking forward to receiving my kit in the post!!

  • Kathryn

    Haha, you minx! I *just* finished experimenting and making notes for boyfriend-izing Gingers, LOL. So obviously I bought the Morgan pattern, too. ???? I’ll make my first pair in the same fabric I used for my boyfriend Gingers because I have tons leftover. It’ll be really fun to compare and contrast, I think.

    • It’s a TOTALLY different pattern (I didn’t even use the same block) so I’d be curious to see the differences as well!

      • Kathryn

        I’ll send pictures!

  • Catherine

    Those look great! I am tempted to sew them up as m’y first jeans.
    Any ideas how much duties would be in Canada?

    • Hi Catherine. If you buy the notions and pattern there is no duty since I ship those from Montreal. Coming from the US with the denim kit there may be a duty charge though. We’re shipping via USPS which doesn’t always means customs charges but you may have to pay GST or something like that if they flag it.

      • Catherine

        Thanks for the input! I think I’ll try to source nice denim in Montréal, it can’t be that hard! And I will definitely be ordering one or two of your findings kit they look awesome!

  • Meri

    Awesome pattern! I’m confused by your wording, though – can we use selvedge denim for these? I imagine the tapered legs mean no (if you wanted to align the selvedge and the outer leg seam). Regardless, I’m excited about these! The fit looks spot on.

    • Hi Meri! It’s not possible to use the selvedge edge on the side seams since there is some curve in the hip. I tried doing a straight side seam but it just doesn’t work with womanly bodies 😉 However, if you want the character of selvedge denim its a great choice – the light blue sample were made with some Japanese selvedge I’ve been hoarding for a year. I also like featuring the pretty selvedge edge along the top edge of the coin pocket!

  • Tasha

    I’m so excited to make these! I received the pre-order email last night and I could not resist getting the kit! I’m very curious about how these will feel. I recently purchased a boyfriend style jean from Old Navy that has a ton of stretch and I love them. I’ve never worn non-stretch jeans before so I’m curious and nervous at the same time about how they will feel.

    • Stretchy bf jeans? Fascinating! If you use anything over 11oz non-stretch they may need a little breaking in to soften up whcih just means wearing them a few weeks before washing them. The black pair I’ve been wearing non-stop and I find them as comfortable as anything else – I don’t have to unbutton them when I sit at my desk all day which is my litmus test for comfort 😉

  • kalimak

    I love the fit of these — it’s exactly what I look for in jeans. I’ve never sewn jeans before — do you think I’d still be able to navigate the pattern?

    Congratulations again! Another beautiful pattern from you!

    • You can TOTALLY sew jeans. The instructions are pretty in depth but there is always the Ginger jeans sew-along or my ebook if you need more help – the construction is very similar except at the fly front (and ps, button flys are easier to install than zippers!)

      • kalimak

        Thanks, Heather! Bought the denim today, can’t wait for the sewalong. Because there will be one, right? 😉

  • Congrats on the pattern release! I can’t wait to make a pair with the final pattern!

    • It’s on its way to you! I still love your Seinfeld jeans though, hahaha.

  • Hélène

    Skinnies, flares and now boyfriend cut, you’ve got us covered now in the jeans department! We might even see Levis’ sales go down tomorrow. Great job, my friend! You look wonderful.

    • Thanks darling! I still have more ideas for denim so it might just have to be an annual thing I do 😉

  • Lusty

    I have a shameful admission: I still have my Ginger Jeans kit waiting for me to make them. But that didn’t stop me buying the Morgan Jeans kit! No sireeee!

    • HAHAHAHAHA amazing! Well, you’re really not going to have an excuse now that more is on its way! 😉

  • These look fantastic!

  • Wow! Non-stretch jeans are the one thing I could think of that I couldn’t find a good pattern for. I have a couple of older Big 4 jeans patterns, but the shape just isn’t quite right, even on the cover models. You nailed it! They look perfect – a fit like you would expect from RTW. I resorted to rubbing off a jeans pattern, but I just might try the Morgan, too. The button fly looks fun.

    • Thanks Leila! I looked at a lot of RTW styles so I think they should be a good fit 😉

      Also, BUTTON FLYS ARE THE BEST! Easier to install than zippers and so pretty!

  • Congrats on the much anticipated pattern launch Heather. I’m loving both of your versions here!

  • I think you already know it, but I LOVE these jeans!! They are the perfect boyfriend cut. Comfy and slouch but not too sloppy! I’m really excited about the notions kits too. Those smaller buttons are hard to find!

    • Thanks babe! I so appreciated your early testing that told me I was on the right track xoxo

  • Katja

    Love, love, love… When I wrote down I wish to have a boyfriend jeans pattern I never thought this would actually happen any time soon, so I was absolutely over the moon when I read this and just had to buy a kit…. She’s just so so perfect and after one year of ordering and trying jeans without buying just a single one because of poor fit/fabric choice you are my rescue and absolute hero 😉

    • Aww, thanks Katja! So happy I could read your mind 😉

      • Katja

        Truly magical 😉 Love your work!

  • Congratulations on the fabulous new pattern! Both your versions look terrific! btw, how many pairs of jeans have you made now? I think you must be the queen of jeans!

    • Someone asked me this in my class this weekend and I honestly couldn’t even say… 30? 40? Most of them were probably muslins but still! It’s a lot! Thanks again for testing Carolyn! Loved yours so much.

  • sallieforrer

    yay!!! She’s live!!! Congratulations! Both of your versions are simply impeccable! Love love love!!

    • Thank you my sweet girl! And thank you for your late night help to style them. xoxoxox

  • Peggy Davis

    Can these be made with stretch denim also?

    • I don’t see why not! I think one of my testers did. I’d stick with no more than 2% lycra and interface the waistband so they hold their shape at the waist.

  • You’ve done it again, you genius beauty you! I thought boyfriend jeans were NEVER a style I’d want to wear, but you’ve convinced me otherwise. I’m thinking these would also make some great cuffed shorts!

  • Your work is inspiring! Great work with the new jeans pattern!

  • I didn’t think this would really be the year I tackle fly-front pants (and pants fitting!!!), but this pattern talked me into pre-ordering a kit in about 30 seconds. Love it!!!! /kind of nervous for what I’ve gotten myself into.

    • I AM YOUR ENABLER!! You can do it Jane!

      • You really are. A swimsuit pattern, your butt-kicking post from earlier this winter, JEANS (sorry, still scary)… thank you for pushing whatever button it is that I need pushed to get any scary sewing done!

  • Congratulations, Heather! I’m irrationally proud of the pattern, even though you did all the work. 🙂 I’m so excited for other sewers to experience the miracle of that curve – still can’t believe how well my version fits!

    • I am soooo happy to hear that. Total kismet!

  • Ybat

    I haven’t worn jeans in five years but these look so comfortable that I have to make them. I was wondering what “selvedge denim” is? Thanks for the great pattern????

    • Aww thanks! Selvedge denim is an old-school woven denim made on shuttle looms. It’s very narrow (generally 31″) and has a distinct and beautiful selvedge from where the fibers are folded over the edge. Manufacturers often weave in a coloured thread into their selvedge so it’s not uncommon to see red, white or blue on the edges of the fabric.

  • Samantha

    Love the new jeans, such a great shape I can’t wait to make them. Random question – the stripy top you’re wearing in the picture – is that a RTW top or did you make it? I really want a top like it!

    • It’s the free Mandy Boat Tee from Tessuti! My new favourite t-shirt pattern!

  • Yay!!! Oh man I think this is the most excited I’ve been about a sewing pattern ever! I’m off to buy denim

  • Awesome! I have just finished my first Ginger and you made me wear jeans after 3+ years, thank you! Now it’s Morgan time, I can’t wait for your post on fabric tips (I hope there will be one) because you are now my jeans guru! Congrats on another beautiful pattern, bravo!

    • I wasn’t planning one initially but maybe I can write one after all….

      • Thank you! That would be the cherry on top of the cherry on top of the sundae 🙂

  • Kellie Moore

    Anyone else have trouble printing the A0 file? My print shop says they need the password.

  • I really didn’t think this year would be the year I would tackle my first jeans but you’re seriously tempting me with this pattern! It looks so good, and I like the sound of more room in the hips. Your notions kits are gorgeous too!

  • Katherine Schluge

    I’m excited to try my first Closet Case Files pattern with your Morgan jeans. I found a denim that looks like it would work: it says it’s 100% cotton but has a little stretch crossgrain. Do you think that would be a problem? Here’s the info on the fabric:

    • Sounds like it would work a treat! Love that light blue colour – very hard to find!

      • Katherine Schluge

        Thank you!