We are wrapping up #nofearnewjeans but as many of you intrepid sewists are still hard at work on your jeans, we thought this would be a good time to show you alternatives to installing your hardware by hand (which we also cover in depth here, and in video form here). An industrial hand press is of course, not a necessary sewing studio item. Many would argue that the good old frying pan and hammer method works well and takes up no room, and they would be right. That said, this baby can do a whole bunch of fun things as well as rivets and buttons with the addition of different dies; grommets, eyelets and snaps can all be installed quickly and easily with this machine.
We are demonstrating using an industrial press from Grommet Mart called the Tep-3. They generously sent us this machine, in addition to donating one to our winner for #nofearnewjeans (congrats by the way to @_jennyjennyjenny_! We’ve contacted you about collecting your prize). If you’d like your own press, they have created a coupon code for us; checkout with CLOSETCASE10 to save 10% off your order.
We will be showing you how to install rivets and buttons using two different die sets. The dies are designed to work with their specific jeans hardware so that’s what we’re using here, but in our experience, our hardware kits are also compatible. However, please note that hollow rivet posts tend to work better with an industrial press; our rivet posts are solid and are the best kind to install by hand.
INSTALLING RIVETS USING AN INDUSTRIAL HAND PRESS
First of all, we recommend you start by practicing on some scraps until you get the hang of things.
The Tek-3 is a fairly customizable machine that lets you raise and lower the rivet/button post dies as well as increase or decrease the space between your front and back parts. After several attempts (good thing we have lots of denim scraps!) we found the perfect combination was achieved by completely removing the pressure adjusting screw in the top. We like a tight rivet and this was perfect on two or three layers of denim.
To get started, make sure you’re using the right die. The rivet die set is the one with the plastic tube (to hold the rivet cap) in place.
First, insert the bottom die for the rivet set.
Next, screw the top die (with the plastic nipple) into the press.
Insert a rivet cap (nipple part up) into the top die.
Then insert your rivet post, flat part down into your bottom die.
Next, insert your fabric (right side up) between the die. The best thing about using an industrial press is that there is no need to make a hole first like you do when installing hardware by hand; the pressure of the tool will create the hole and install the rivet at the same time.
Voila! I like this machine because it was really easy to go back and adjust things after. If it’s not flush enough you can just set your rivet post back into the die and press it again.
INSTALLING JEANS BUTTONS WITH A PRESS
Setting the jeans button is just as easy. There is another die set for this hardware and it is changed out the same way.
Insert the bottom die and screw in the top die.
The button post is inserted the same way.
And the snap snaps (duh) up into the handy little holder.
Insert the fabric in between, and you bring the handle down gently at first so you can mark with precision where your button will go.
All in all I think this is a great machine if you plan on making lots of stuff with hardware. The versatility of the functions is pretty great, it looks cool and you definitely feel like Rosie the Riveter cranking on that handle. For many, the last bastion of home sewing is installing hardware and using a machine like this goes a long way to feeling like you truly can make anything yourself!
Would you consider investing in an industrial press for your sewing studio?