Mitered V neck knit binding // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case Files
Tutorials

HOW TO SEW KNIT BINDING ON A V OR MITERED NECKLINE

I recently discovered a love for knit bindings, spurred after admiring a lovely dress made by Kay the Sewing Lawyer. It’s great when you want a simple, narrow finish on knit garments but don’t need a lot of stretch. I had a hard time finding any tutorials for binding a v-neck, but worked it out after emailing with Amy about it (one of my favourite people to nerd out about sewing esoterica with).

In yesterday’s post on hacking the Sallie jumpsuit into a romper, I explained the changes you must make to the pattern in order to remove the lining. The lining is convenient because it encloses all of your raw seams; if you’re going to forgo it, you’ll need to use a neckline binding instead.  In this tutorial, I am using the kimono tee as an example, but it can also be used on the tank variation. In that case, sew the front and back V first. The side bindings should be extra long so they can become the shoulder straps. You can see what I mean by checking out Amy’s version here.

First step: sew and stablilize your shoulder seams with some clear elastic or stay tape. Press the seams to the back.

BInding a knit V neck // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case Files

For reinforcement, sew a short line of stitches around the pointed V seam allowance . Clip at the V without cutting your stitches.

BInding a knit V neck // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case Files

Measure your complete neck opening to get your binding length (plus seam allowance x 2). The width of the binding will be your seam allowance x 4. In the case of the Sallie, the total width of the binding will be 1 1/2″ (37mm).

BInding a knit V neck // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case Files

Starting at the back shoulder, pin the binding to the neckline, right sides together.

BInding a knit V neck // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case Files

Start sewing the band to the neckline along the seam allowance. Use a walking foot if you have one, and don’t stretch the fabric as you sew. When you get to the V, straighten out the fabric so that the V notch lines up with the binding. As you get to the clipped portion, ensure you are catching the bodice fabric as you sew the binding.

BInding a knit V neck // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case FilesBInding a knit V neck // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case Files

Continue sewing all the way around, repeating the above step when you get to the front V. When you come back to where you started, you may fold over one of the seam allowances to enclose the raw edge, but to reduce bulk I just left the seam flat since knit doesn’t unravel. Your neckline will look something like this:

BInding a knit V neck // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case Files

Fold the binding over the seam you just sewed and press it flat all the way around.

BInding a knit V neck // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case Files

Fold the binding over again so that it neatly encloses your seam, and press flat all the way around. Try to keep the width of the binding consistent.

BInding a knit V neck // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case Files

Pin the binding into place. I am leaving the inside edge raw because knits don’t unravel, but feel free to serge it if it bugs you.

BInding a knit V neck // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case Files

To sew the binding into place, stitch in the ditch along the entire neckline on the right side of the garment, making sure are catching the raw edge of the binding beneath. Stitching in the ditch means you are sewing right in between the binding and the bodice; it’s almost invisible when done carefully.

BInding a knit V neck // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case Files

The binding is now sewn to the bodice all the way around. You’ll notice that the V neckline is now curved instead of mitered.

BInding a knit V neck // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case Files

In order to create a nice crisp V, fold the bodice in half (right sides together). The binding will be sticking out a little bit. Sew a short straight line along that little triangle, backstitching on either end of the stitch line.

BInding a knit V neck // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case Files

Press the neckline flat. You now have a lovely binded V neckline! Your shoulder straps will now have to be sewn on rather than sewn in between the bodice and lining. Sew two short lines along the binding to precent the straps from flipping out.

Mitered V neck knit binding // Sallie Jumpsuit Pattern // Closet Case Files

Obviously this technique can be used on any knit pattern – try it in lieu of a knit band on your Nettie bodysuit!

  • Awesome! Thanks Dude! Btw your fabric looks amazing!

  • ooobop

    Really helpful tute, thank you. I have done this once before but I’ve got memory retention issues!!

  • Kate

    Steph from Cake Patterns has a fantastic v-neck binding method. Gives a gorgeous result and you can make it a very narrow binding or a wide finish. I’ve used it on a few tops now and it sits beautifully flat. http://sewingcake.com/lapped-v-binding/

  • Perfect V Binding! Mine was a little off on the last thing I made- I forgot the little cut- which I will remember for next time! Thanks for sharing!

  • Nicole – Sew Knit Create

    Great tutorial thanks for sharing 🙂

  • Diane Atwell

    Thanks for sharing this – most helpful

  • Maddie

    That’s so funny I’m actually sewing a knit top that is lined but I wanted to do it the way you described and this tutorial is exactly what I needed. I love you guys. Thanks so much.