Hi everybody, Alexis here! You know, before I started sewing and had the opportunity to join the team here at Closet Case Patterns, I was studying classical trumpet. I have spent a lot of time in the back of an orchestra playing really loud. It is always a blast, literally! When it comes time to perform a concert there is usually a dress code for the performers. For the gentlemen, it’s easy, they always know what to wear. They usually have a set of suits or tuxes they can cycle through. Hopefully these get dropped off at the dry cleaner between concerts! For the ladies, the attire is a little more flexible, but still within some sort of boundary, usually “black”, and often floor and wrist length. It can be fun to personalize this dress code (within the boundaries, of course) and dress up, but I’ve always felt the most ready for a concert wearing a classic blazer. First, there are pockets! And a blazer is nice and warm to wear, as opposed to an evening gown.
One of my favourite features from one of the ready-to-wear blazers in my concert closet is a flash of coloured piping inside. When you wear a lot of black on stage, it’s a fun little secret detail that can change things up when you’re getting ready! We decided to give it a try on one of the samples we are working on for an upcoming spring photoshoot. Adding flat piping to a lining is really such an easy detail you don’t really need a tutorial for, but we thought we’d share a few photos with you, in case you’d like to add piping with a pop of colour to your Jasika Blazer too!
You will add the piping to the blazer just before installing the lining, so the entire shell of your jacket should be finished. The collar and facing have been attached, and the sleeves have already been set in. You have sewn in your sleeveheads and shoulder pads at this point as well.
Fully assemble your lining as per the instructions included in the Jasika Blazer instruction booklet, ensuring sleeve hems and back vent have been pressed thoroughly.
Now is the fun part! You will need about 2.5 yards of your choice of single-fold bias tape. You can make your own with your own flashy fabric with our tutorial for how to make bias tape and piping. For this sample we used some yellow Kona quilting cotton, but any woven fabric would do. As mentioned in the tutorial, you will need to experiment with the width of the fabric strips for your bias tape to achieve the look you want. We made 1.5″ strips of fabric, which made 6/8″ wide single fold bias tape when folded and presses. This means about 1/8″ of piping will be visible when the lining is sewn to the jacket. The result is subtle, so if you want a more striking effect, cut wider strips of fabric when making your bias tape.
When your bias tape is ready and pressed on the fold, pin it place around the facing of the jacket, leaving a little extra on either end.
Because of the way the hem of the lining for this pattern is finished, you don’t want the piping to extend completely to the very bottom of the facing. Pin each end so it disappears into the seam allowance, about 2″ from the bottom of the facing.
Baste the piping in place just inside the 5/8″ seam allowance.
For the next step, you’ll follow the Jasika Blazer instructions as written. With right sides together, pin the lining to the jacket facing.
The piping will be sandwiched between the layers. You can trim the excess piping now or after the lining has been stitched in place.
Stitch the lining to the facing at 5/8″ as indicated in the instructions. When you are done, grade the seam and turn everything right side out to reveal your pop of colour!
Press the seam towards the lining. The end of the piping will disappear into the seam near the bottom of the facing on either side of the jacket.
The last step is to understitch everything in place 1/8″ from the seam on the side of the lining.
It’s also a good time to add your me-made label before the rest of the lining is bagged and stitched closed!
The finish line is in sight, your blazer is almost ready to wear! Each blazer I’ve sewn so far has felt like a very invested project, but when I get to the end I look forward to sewing another, so I can add more cool details like this one! For those of you who are following along on the #BlazerOfGlory challenge, keep up the great work! We are really enjoying following everyone’s blazer making journey here at the studio. Whether you’re planning on wearing your blazer to a concert, your 9-to-5, or just because, it will be worth it.