Hi all! Amy here. I am so excited to share this beautiful studio DIY with you; a custom serger and sewing machine cover using our free pattern! This is a fast and satisfying project, perfect for adding some ‘zazz to your sewing space (not to mention a great stash buster for all those awkward random yards you may have hanging around).
Part of the new studio revamp included a plan for matching dust covers for our machines, and Heather was stoked to finally track down the Instagram famous monstera print from Rifle Paper Co and Cotton & Steel; it matches our studio jungle! It was sold out all over but seems to be restocked at Fabric.com. We drafted two patterns for our machines, and we are super excited to share them with you. The sewing machine cover pattern includes two pockets, ideal for storing a machine foot or table extension. The serger cover pattern is sans pocket, but is angled to neatly encase you serger or coverstitch machine. Both can be downloaded using the link below in copyshop or print at home format; you’ll be added to our mailing list in order to access the file (ps. our monthly newsletter is super fun and you get first dibs at new patterns and sales).
- 1 yard of a sturdy cotton/denim/canvas for each machine (you can also use a linen/cotton blend like our monstera print or Essex linen)
- Piping (1.75 yards for sewing machine, 2 yds for serger)
- two small squares of fusible interfacing (sewing machine cover only)
- polyester thread
- piping foot
- snap or button (sewing machine cover only)
- snap or button setter (sewing machine cover only)
- awl (sewing machine cover only)
- hammer (sewing machine cover only)
Since the process is the exact same for both versions, I am going to walk you through making the sewing machine cover, as it is slightly more complicated with two pockets and a snap. The sewing machine cover will fit a machine with approximate dimensions of 15″ long x 12″ high x 7″ deep, and the serger will fit a machine that is 12” long x 12” high x 14” deep. There is a little wiggle room here so don’t fret if your machine is an inch larger in any direction, but if you want to fit your machine exactly, we include lengthen/shorten lines on the pattern so you can adjust accordingly.
Ok, let’s get started!
First thing you will want to do is make a whole whack of piping using our piping tutorial. I say the more the merrier with piping since it’s almost more annoying to make a small amount, and you can always use it in other projects. We made our piping using our body fabric, but you could also make contrast piping or use the ready-made stuff from the store. No shame in the game! Once that’s done, cut out your pieces and give everything a good press.
Next, press the long sides of the pocket (piece C) down by 5/8″ twice.
Repeat for the other pocket and topstitch both in place.
Lay the main body (the long one) right side up and pin your pockets to either end, lining up the raw edge along the bottom. Baste these pieces together along the raw edges at 3/8″.
Next, you will be creating the double pocket. We have included a notch at the bottom of the pocket piece which is exactly halfway across. If you would like a smaller pocket on one side for your machine foot or stitch guide, simply measure and do your top stitching there. For the middle pocket draw a line from the notch to the top of the pocket piece and topstitch along that line, making sure to backstitch at the top.
If you wanted two double pockets, you could of course repeat this on the other side. We wanted to make a big enough pocket for the machine’s table extension, so we will be just leaving the other side for now.
Time to attach the piping; if that’s a new skill for you, we have an in-depth tutorial here. Pin your piping on to both side pieces (piece B), lining the raw edge up with the outer edge. You may need to notch it in order to help it lay flat.
Using a piping foot, align the needle as far to the right as you can and baste the piping on. I notched the fabric at this point and ironed everything to get it nice and flat.
Next, match the top notch on piece B with the notch on piece A and pin the pieces together. You are lining up a straight line to a curved line so you may need to ease the fabric around the corners. Move your needle back into the middle still using your piping foot and stitch, making sure you are sewing on the inside of the first row of stitching. Repeat on the other side.
Once done you will want to finish those seams. You can do this with a serger by only trimming off loose threads, or zig-zag to finish the raw edges.
Flip the piece inside out and press the seams towards the body.
At this point, try the cover on your machine to ensure your hem is the right length. We folded up the bottom 1/2″ and then 1″. Press using a bunch of steam especially at the corners. Topstitch in place.
If you want to add a snap or button to your large pocket you will need a snap setter, hammer and hard surface to work on.
Once you know where you want your snap to be, iron a small square of interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric where both sides of hardware will be. For details on setting snaps, see our tutorial. You can also replace the snap with a regular ‘ol button.
And that’s it! Don’t forget, if you’re making the serger cover the process is more or less the same, except you’ll be skipping the pockets.
Here are some shots of all the ladies in situe. It’s a jungle in here!
We hope you get some use from our free pattern! It’s one of those projects that doesn’t feel do or die necessary, but they really add a little something to our space, and protect our machines from dust when they’re not in regular use.
Have you glammed up your studio with some sewing machine tuxedoes?