The Kelly Anorak // Jacket Sewing Pattern // Closet Case Patterns
Closet Case Patterns


Fabric options for the Kelly Anorak // Closet Case Patterns

Today I want to talk fabric for your Kelly Anorak. There are lots of options, so it’s really up to you to decide what kind of jacket you want. Something soft and cottony that will get nicely broken in over time? Something waterproof and sporty? Something structured and a little more stiff like a waxed cotton? I’ve gone ahead and done a little legwork for you already; here are some great options.


Cotton twill is the obvious choice for this pattern and it’s affordable and easy to source. The biggest consideration is getting something with a decent heft. I ordered a zillion samples when we were developing Kelly, and I think Robert Kaufman makes a twill with the right weight for this pattern. The line is called Ventana and they have over 60 colours on; above are some of my favourite colours. Isn’t that olive green perfect? Twill is soft and will get broken in like a great pair of jeans over time. If you want something waterproof, you can also try waxing it with a coat of Otter Wax.


Cotton twill isn’t the only fabric to consider. I’m intrigued by the rayon and nylon lycra blends at Style Maker Fabrics, and Mood also has some interesting fabrics in stock right now. Take note of that peach twill in the second row above – it’s double faced with a teal colour on the other side. Wouldn’t that little pop of colour contrast be glorious in an unlined jacket?

You may want to consider a stretch twill as well. They generally have a little more structure because of the lycra content, but they will definitely make for a very comfy jacket. I’m also planning on making one in linen for a light spring coat next year.



one – waterproof breathable fabric// two – goretex // three – waterproof twill // four – waterproof breathable fabric // five – goretex // six – goretex // seven – organic cotton ripstop // eight – organic cotton ripstop // nine – organic cotton  ripstop

If you want something a  little sportier and able to withstand the elements, there are lots of options out there. Rocky Woods has a huge selection of performance fabrics, and I’ve also included a few organic cotton ripstops from If you are planning on making a raincoat, be sure to pick up some seam sealant as well, otherwise water will be able to permeate your stitch line.

If you’re unsure, I always recommend ordering swatches first. This is particularly helpful with waterproof fabrics since you can test how water reacts to them before you buy.

What fabric are you planning to use for your Kelly?

  • Dana Bultje

    I can’t wait to start mine! Can’t decide if I want the lovely olive green, a red, blue, or grey… I think I’ll just have to make all of them 😉

  • embroidered. anorak. must. get. printer. ink.

  • I didn’t click every linked fabric so maybe you mention them, but Thread Theory has a couple cool waterproof jacket fabrics too – and they’re in Canada! Yay!

  • What about canvas? Do you think it would be too stiff? Can’t wait to get started!!

    • Totally! I would maybe leave out the drawstring out if it’s super heavy weight since it won’t gather nicely.

    How about this as a colour-blocking inspiration for Kelly!

    • Totally! But oh my those pockets look uncomfortable haha.

  • Callie

    Love this pattern!! Do you think it would be disastrous to try to underline it with some flannel? I live in an already-basically-winter place 🙁 Also how many pages is the PDF? I’m trying to decide if I want to tape it all together. I love getting paper patterns and cutting into them right away, but the overly cautious person in me once to have the PDF unless I fudge it up and need a do-over. 🙂

    • Not disastrous at all! I think that would actually be a fine solution to drafting a lining. Now you’re just giving me ideas 😉 And it is 48 pages to print. Half what Clare was so not too bad by my standards haha

      • Callie


    • Martha

      Callie, this was my first thought, too, about this pattern. Would love to hear how the underlining goes! I’ve never attempted a pattern this complicated, but hope to this winter. I really need a fall lned jacket.

  • Yavanna Reynolds

    Thank you for linking the page for the lovely anorak that Thread Theory sewed up. I think I found my MAN pattern for my hubby. And that fabric is divine. For US peeps, the current exchange rate puts it at $15.22/meter. I think I might make a Navy Kelly. I also really love the ginger stretch blended linen you posted from MOOD fabrics. That color looks amazing on me and would really pop for Fall! So excited to sew this pattern up!

  • I’m super tempted to try some of those technical fabrics for the perfect rain jacket/shell! Thanks for all the fabric links! That said, I love, love, love the twill version I made ( and it was pretty fabulous in the New England fall weather. I’m also curious to try waxing a coat. So many things I want to sew, so little time!

  • Elisabeth M. Schoopp

    Thank you!
    Now I want several different Kellys for different moods and weather conditions 😉

  • Martha

    Is there a sewalong planned for this jacket?

    • Hi Martha. We’re not doing a formal sewalong but I am covering all the tricky bits over the next few weeks!

  • mrssandoval

    Hey, y’all! I’m undecided on interlining with lambswool PLUS underlining (flatlining?) with rayon. Maybe I’ll do a Hong Kong finish on the seams orrrrr I’ll just draft a lining and bag it up.

    It just sucks because I’m very skinny, but a 32DD. I’m glad there’s a FBA post, but sadly, I have bony shoulders that resemble a linebacker. It’s gross.

    Can anyone help me with a broad back adjustment on this pattern? Do I just do it on the back yoke?

    Oh, and my hb is 30″. Do I do a size zero, then grade out to a size 2 for the bust/waist/hips?


    • Depends on how beefy that lambswool is…. You’ll have to aggressively grade your seams, and I’d leave teh wool out of the sleeves unless you want to grade them a little bigger. I’m tempted to tell you to just make a straight size 2 – its okay if this fits a little slouchy and it might avoid the need for an FBA.

      • For the record my assistant Alexis is technically a size 6 but looked just fine in teh size 10 sample.

        • mrssandoval

          Are you Canadian? UK? I think sizing is different from the US to UK, so like a size 4 USA is a size 8 UK — or something like that.
          Most pattern makers say to go by high bust and grade out, but the hb is 31″. My waist is 25, so I went with size 2. It’s a trench coat, not a tailored Burberry. So, if it’s baggy on my hb, who cares?!
          I’m just scared about drafting a lining, though I’ve done it before but on less than a yard of fabric for my kiddo.

      • mrssandoval

        Heather L, I did trace off a 2 just in case. Bigger to smaller is always easier, as far as alterations go.
        The lambswool is the standard interlining one from Bergen Tailors and a few other companies. I graded the arms slightly bigger because of the interlining.
        I’m tempted to just bag a lining, but I’ve got to see where all the facings are located. I’ll make a heavy sateen one with satin underlining for spring in robins egg blue.
        I wanted to make a wool one, but I’d have to omit the facings and use a silk or rayon lining to bag it because I’m allergic to wool. I’ve successfully made wool coats with a color matching cotton to use as facing to prevent the wool from touching my skin on previous garments with great success.
        Pleeeeaaase make a broad shoulder adjustment post, or is there enough ease? And pleeeaaassseee make a bagged lining post?? 😉
        I wish I tested it. I’d ask for a paid-for extension pack with lining pieces. Ex: pay an extra $7 for lining pieces in PDF or $10 for paper. That’d be fantastic!
        I’ve got the dies coming for utility snaps to be used with my table top snap press. I’ve got an army green cotton ripstop and a gorgeous hippie cotton lining with silk for sleeves. I’m going to use elastic in place of the drawstring.
        I’m so stoked!

        • We may do a lining expansion in the spring. As for broad shoulder adjustment, you’re probably okay in the size 2. If you’re nervous you might want to refer to this post:

          • mrssandoval

            I love CSC for us busty gals! You can be a size 0 and still use their wisdom.
            Spring is too late; I’m itchy for this jacket now because it’s fantastic!
            I’m really being lazy. I can draft a lining and bag it. I already did the FBA and so I’ll make up a muslin and see the fit with a heavy sweater acting as interlining and lining.
            Thanks, Heather L. Your help and quick response is refreshing and it gives me confidence at buying THREE of your patterns!

          • Happy to hear it!

  • Rae Blackledge

    I just finished mine in a light weight stretch corduroy, love it! Thank you for the great pattern.

  • Suzanne

    Heather, I just bought 4 yds of this fabric in blue, do you think it would make a good Kelly or should I look for a different fabric? –

    • Looks like it should be perfect! You’ll just have to see when it arrives if its too stiff to add the waist drawstring….

  • Ashley

    Love this post. Currently trying to decide. Could you recommend another alternative to the Kaufman options? Seems most of those fabulous colours are no longer available. Love the Bordeaux and the Natural! Oh, and the olive!

    • Have you tried Mood? They always have tons of cotton twills.

  • Martha

    Would the 100% cotton twill end up too wrinkly out of the washer? Maybe poly cotton if I don’t want to end up ironing my jacket?

    • My twill was a little wrinkled out of the dryer but they fell out after wearing a few times. You could do a poly blend – just use low heat when you press.