Sewalongs

CLARE SEWALONG PT 6 // CUTTING & INTERFACING

Today we will be prepping and cutting all of our pattern pieces so we’re ready to start sewing later in the week. I’m not going to bore everyone to tears with too much cutting advice since you probably already have your own favourite method for doing that.

The biggest thing you want to keep in mind while you’re doing your coat prep is pattern piece management. Coats always have lots of pieces and in order to avoid getting confused, work methodically and keep a list handy of what and how many pieces you need to cut.  I also like to note what paper pattern pieces need to be cut from interfacing with a swipe of highlighter; it’s easy to visually see them when it’s time to cut later on. If you are making View A, be especially careful how you lay out your pattern pieces. Some are not symmetrical, and need to be cut with the right side of the  fabric facing up; it is indicated on the pattern piece itself when that is the case.

Clare Coat Pattern_ cutting out your coat

Here’s my process for coat projects.

  1. Cut fabric/body pieces. Set aside paper pattern pieces also used for interfacing after cutting out your fabric.
  2. Cut interfacing (don’t forget your horsehair if you’ve cutting View A).
  3. Cut lining.
  4. Fuse interfacing to fabric pieces.

Pin a note with the name and number of each piece after its been cut so you can keep track. Make sure you’re also transferring construction markings and notches as you go. You may find it helpful to hang fabric, interfacing and lining on separate hangers until it is time to put them to use.

INTERFACING APPLICATION

If you are using fusible interfacing, the least fun, most time consuming part of your project will be fusing everything together (unless you scored some pre-block fused fabric!) The key to this process for me is entertainment; make sure you have an interesting podcast to listen to, or a TV show to watch while you’re methodically applying the fusible to your coat pieces.

Clare Coat Pattern_ cutting out your coat-3

If possible, verify the application details for your brand of interfacing before you get started. In my experience, weft fusible interfacing is applied best with medium heat, a little pressure and a little steam. You want to use pressure to press and hold your iron on the interfacing before lifting and moving the iron to a new location for about 10 seconds at a time. Do not iron the interfacing on with a back and forth motion – think “Lift and press, lift and press”. Some areas of interfacing are quite large and will take a little time to apply. Work slowly, enjoy your Scandal or podcast or whatever, and make sure everything is evenly fused to your fabric, otherwise you’ll be battling bubbling down the road. It’s also best to let the piece cool before you move it to ensure the adhesive has gripped the fabric.

Clare Coat Pattern_ cutting out your coat-5

Once your interfacing has been applied and your lining is cut out, we’ll move to the next stage: assembling the front! See you tomorrow!

  • Kathryn

    Hahah, I just realized this morning that htese seealong updates are basically my advent calendar this year. The anticipation! The fun! ?

    I think, after having cut all my outer shell pieces, I going to just block-fuse all of them. Wish I’d made that decision last night before cutting, but ah well. I wonder, though, if you have any insight into using fusible on a heavily patterned double cloth? There are large sections on my fabric where the back layer and front layer are actually seperate, so the fusible will only be attached to the back layer. I figure this won’t be a huge problem, but I thought I’d ask!

    • I wouldn’t worry about it. As long as there is a little stability should be okay. You could always consider adding a fabric “back stay” along the top hard of the back if you’re worried it doesn’t have enough support from the fusible.

  • Jo Dec

    I went to Tonitex today and got a beautiful wool and kasha. For the interlining, they sold me a fabric usually used for oven mitts and such. It seems very bulky to me so I think I’ll skip this part even if l’m a Canadian! I would like to know more about blocking the wool, the dryer seems the simplest method to me, hot, warm, cold, delicate cycle? Thanks for your advice.

    • Its going to be so beautiful! As for the wool care: NO WASHER! Just throw it in a hot dryer with a damp towel. The steam from the towel will shrink it without felting it 🙂

  • Jo Dec

    How long should it be in the dryer? Sorry if I sound a bit insecure about the whole thing. It’s my first coat and second garnment, so I’m really excited but nervous at the same time.

    • No worries 😉 I’d leave them in until the towels are dry.

      • Jo Dec

        Thanks a lot. I’ll do that.

  • Mollie Rose

    This is my first coat so this is possibly a silly question, but can I forgo interfacing the body if I am using thinsulate to give the jacket extra warmth?

    • Nope, sorry Mollie! If you don’t interface your coat will stretch out of shape, thinsulate or no thinsulate. Also, the thinsulate should be applied to the lining rather than the body so you’re not really adding structure to the coat fabric at all with it.

  • Letitia

    Hi, at some point I thought I read that you interfaced all of the pieces for your camel view B sample, but now I can’t find that information again. Is that something you would recommend or did I read it wrong?

  • Molly

    Do you prewash your horsehair and fusible weft interfacing? What’s your preferred method?

    • Not really. I know it’s suggested to wash fusibles in warm water and hang to dry but I never do and haven’t had a problem yet…

  • Amaia CE

    Hi! I know I’m a bit late to the sewalong, but I couldn’t get to sewing my Clare till now. I’ve got two questions. There is something I don’t understand about interfacing the side panels. Looking at the instructions it seems to me that side panel on view A isn’t fully interfaced while the side panel on view B is totally interfaced. Why is it different or did I get it wrong?

    And second question, I got a lining with quilted batting for extra warmth but I think it’s polyester. I’m afraid it might be too bulky and little effective for insulation. Have you got any previous experience with this and could you give me any advice? Thank you so much.

    • The View B panel is full interfaced because of the pocket opening. Technically I could have just made yet another pattern piece to interface that area but we had so many pieces at that point I just decided to interface the whole thing.

      As for your batting…. it depends on how thick it is. If its REALLY thick it probably won’t work for the coat, or you may have to use it on the body only. Never worked with this material so I can’t say for sure.

      • Amaia CE

        Now I see! Thanks for your answer!!