Fabric Files, Sewalongs

CLARE COAT SEWALONG PT 2 // WOOL COATING FABRIC (AND WOOL ALTERNATIVES)

Today we’re going to walk through the fabric & lining options for your Clare Coat. I’ll follow up tomorrow with a post on additional supplies so you don’t feel overwhelmed. Clare can be made with a variety of fabrics, and while I’m partial to wool,  I’ll also be covering wool alternatives down below.

WOOL COATING FABRIC

The best thing about making coats, besides the whole “I made a gorgeous thing that prevents me from dying of exposure” thing is getting to work with wool. I. LOVE. WOOL. As I’ve said in the past, it basically purrs when you apply heat and steam; it wants to become things. Sheep are basically like, “Yo, humans. You’re welcome.” It’s naturally insulative, water resistant, breathable, wrinkle resistant, easy to sew and shape, and finally, it takes dye incredibly well, so you can drape your bod in the most beautifully saturated colours.

Because Clare doesn’t have a lot of internal structure, it’s important that your fabric have enough body to create a clean, crisp silhouette. I highly suggest working with medium and heavy weight wools only; suiting weight is too drapey for this pattern. I learned this the hard way when I feel in love with a lightweight melton; even when I interlined it with cotton flannel it failed to have the body I was after and hung a little limply in the sleeves and across the back.

Wool coat fabric // Clare Coat Sewalong // Closet Case Files

Most fabric stores will have a wool coating section. Wool can come from sheep (merino & shetland), alpaca, goats (mohair & cashmere), rabbits (angora) and even camel. If you’re allergic to wool, try experimenting with a sample of a wool alternative to see if you have the same reaction.

TYPES OF WOOL COATING

  • Felt – wool fibers that have been been wet, heated, agitated and compressed so that it creates a strong, dense fabric. Felt can be deceptive; the really thick stuff feels like it would almost be too thick to be wearable, but fear not. It totally softens up with steam and handling.
  • Melton – tight, densely woven wool cloth that is felted and brushed on one side to create a “fulled” texture.
  • Boiled Wool – made from a woven wool fabric that is washed in hot water, shrunk and then felted to create a very dense, water resistant fabric.
  • Tweed – rough, open weave of fabric in plain weave, twill or herringbone style.
  • Boucle – soft, textured, loosely woven wool fabric

All of the above fabric will be appropriate for Clare, but keep in mind that looser weaves like boucle may require more aggressive interfacing then what I have called for in the pattern in order to give it the body it requires.

WOOL FABRIC TIPS

As I mentioned, wool absolutely loves heat and steam. It is frankly delightful to press your first wool seam open and see how it responds to the iron! Here are some things to keep in mind when working with wool:

  • Pre-treating and shrinking wool fabric is a must. You can try to shrink on your ironing board with loads of steam, but I’m lazy and either throw my yardage in the dryer with a  couple of damp towels, or bring it to the drycleaner to be block steamed on those big steaming tables they have.
  • Press, don’t iron. Use an up and down motion with your iron as opposed to a back and forth one so you’re not stretching your wool out of shape. Try and let your wool cool a little before manipulating it; its very easy to stretch and distort when its hot and damp.
  • Use a pressing cloth made from light cotton or silk organza (you can also use a light piece of wool!) A press cloth with help prevent marks from appearing on your wool.
  • Use a seam roll and/or a tailors ham. If you’ve been putting off buying these tools, now is the time. They really make an extraordinary difference in the final garment, especially when it come sto those curved raglan shoulders! A seam roll will create a rounded surface to press on, so you don’t see the lines of the seam imprinted in your fabric.
  • If you do get wool “bruising” even after using a press cloth and seam roll (which is what happened on my big squishy felt camel sample, the sensitive beast), lightly steam the area, spritz with water and let dry naturally so the fibers can stand back up again. This is a hot tip from my tailoring guru Maimu.
  • Use a wood clapper for the crispest, most beautiful pressed seams ever.
  • Over pressed “shiny” areas can be brought back to life with a solution of 2 teaspoons of vinegar in one cup of water. Apply to fabric with a spray bottle and then press gently beneath a pressing cloth.

WOOL FABRIC SUGGESTIONS

My favourite sources for coating are Mood, Emma One Sock, Britex (not cheap but oh the beauty!), and Blackbird Fabrics (and she’s having a coating sale till Friday- enter COATLOVE at checkout for 15% off).

WOOL ALTERNATIVES

Coating fabric - wool alternatives // Clare Coat Sewalong // Closet Case Files

one two three // four five six // seven eight nine // ten eleven twelve

Of course, you do not need to use wool for your Clare Coat! Some of you may be allergic, live in warmer climates, or like the pattern’s namesake, avoid wool for ethical reasons. Whatever the case, you can use any medium to heavy weight woven for this pattern. Use a synthetic wool alternative if you can find it, or try a sturdy twill, denim or canvas. I’m especially fond of brocades for a fancier evening coat, and I’ve also been longing to see Clare made up in a beautiful upholstery fabric.

LINING

Kasha linings // Clare Coat Sewalong // Closet Case Files

A beautiful pop of colour inside a jacket feels so special, especially if it’s a high quality fabric like silk or rayon bemberg. Do not deface your beautiful coat with a cheap acetate lining; it will be shredded in no time.

If you’re in a colder climate, I highly encourage you to seek out kasha; it is a flannel backed satin that adds a little extra warmth to your outerwear. It’s available here at Vogue fabrics and Sawyer Brook (Canadians can find some on Fabricville.com).  You may also find it referred to as “Sunback”; B & J fabrics has lots of colours in stock here. If you do live in a city hard hit during the winter, I’m sure you can find it locally at whoever has the best selection of coating. In Montreal, I suggest Tonitex; they have lots of affordable wool (some even block fused!) and a whole wall of kasha lining. Please let me know in the comments if there are any online sources for kasha I am missing.

I’ll be back tomorrow with information on the interfacing and various doodads you need to make your Clare. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below!

  • Catherine

    Just bought my wool from Tonitex today and ordered my pattern, can’t wait to get started!

    • Whoop whoop! What did you get?

      • Catherine

        A soft boiled wool in a medium grey colour, it’s going to be much nicer than the wool coat I made more then 10 years ago

  • I warn all innocent children: while Clare has no ‘ease’ to speak of in its construction, upholstery fabric needs to be compressable and have some squish to it. That was the sad fate of my Clare sample; because of the crisp structure of the upholstery fabric, I sewed myself a chair to wear. That said, the chair’s print motifs lined up very easily from front to back, sleeves included. As a theoretical exercise, it’s brilliant.

    • MarjeAksli

      SJ, Do you mind sharing the result? I was contemplating a lo-ong time over a lovely pink upholstery fabric. Hesitant to go for upholstery material, I bought some lovely red wool instead. Only realized at home that it is Santa Claus red. Not sure what was I thinking… https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/3fb705311301aef982f553fb6e4ad9b84a7acf9ca1af648acfd3db907ee45c61.jpg

      • I had a fabric that could not be ironed due to melty content, and no amount of top stitching both sides of all the seams disguises the poky ugly hot mess the edges turned into. I can sew better than that.
        Some things need to be ironed. Some things cannot. There’s a reason a lot of upholstered stuff has that big fat piping in the seams, and I believe it’s to hide the amount of little stiff syntetic fibers that want to be free from the seam stitching. Like trimming with barbed wire.
        I feel I took one for the team, but the team doesn’t need to see it. I can sew a lot better than that;it’s long been binned. Just trust me on this one.

        • MarjeAksli

          Clear. I wish I could go shopping with you next time…

  • Mariah

    Hi Heather! I have some vintage metallic brocade in my stash that I was wondering about for a lining. It is medium weight and I think it’s silk but I’m not entirely sure. What do you think? Too heavy?

    • You’re wondering if the brocade is too heavy? I doubt it! It sounds perfect! If you want to wear it for fancy nights, you should line it with silk. For warmth, kasha if you can find it! It ha sa satin back so it still feels special.

  • You know what? The have kasha and rayon bremburg online at Fabriville.com. The colour selection is not that great, but it’s there for our fellow Canadians, if you can’t find it anywhere else. I have yet to hit up my local Fabricland, but that’s my plan. I’m hoping they have it so I can save the shipping – I don’t think I have a chance of finding it anywhere else locally, but I am looking.

  • I found it the kasha here as well http://store.sawyerbrook.com/Coat-Lining/productinfo/L%2DCT/
    still which I could find it in eurupe o even better Scandinavia.

  • Cat G

    Where is that pink from in the first set of wool pictures? Both the links for six and eight go to the same place.

  • Sunback is another name for kasha lining and they sell it online at B&J Fabrics, if you’re in the US. 🙂

  • Those swatches in the first photo are so, so… yummy! Can one say that about wool and not look silly?
    I want a coat in all of these fabrics!

  • I’m hoping to make it out of a bull denim, and wonder what I should use for interfacing.

    To be honest, I’m tempted to not use interfacing at all. So talk me into it? (Weft interfacing is dry clean only, but my fabric/lining aren’t. That’s my current argument against it.)

    • With denim I think you could get away with a lighter weight non-woven fusible. And you have to interface. Have to. There are seams cut on the bias and it will be a hot mess over time if you don’t stabilize key areas!

      • Okay. That’s a good reason. And good to know I can try something lighter weight. THANK YOU MAKEBOSS!

  • Finally got my wool swatches through (bit slow getting started here) and the colour I just love is the lightest weight of them all 🙁 It’s described as a tweedy Melton… It’s definitely not got much body like the other Melton /boiled wools I have through. If I used interfacing for all of my pieces do you think it will work? Or do I need to get over it and just choose one of the other (very nice) samples I have? Thank you! Just want to get started now!

    • What does your gut say? You can go for it but it won’t be very warm without an interlining, and speaking form experience, I really think you need something with body for this pattern.

      • That’s what I needed to hear! It’s too lightweight. Moving on – time to get some fabric ordered 🙂 thank you!