Quilted Tamarack Jacket with Shibori print lining // Closet Case Patterns
Sewing Projects

Chambray & Shibori Print Tamarack Jacket

Oh the unblogged personal projects I have to share! During a month or so of relative downtime (ie. not making a million samples for future patterns and working a regular, normal amount of hours per week) I went to town on my stash and always looming “to make” list and sewed so many things.

As I’ve been working my way through the book A Curated Closet, I’ve been thinking a lot more intelligently and thoughtfully about the sorts of things I want to add to my wardrobe. Which reminds me: I really need to get around to sharing some of my personal conclusions from that book since I love looking at people’s wardrobe architecting. I dsicovered one of the big holes in my closet was cozy layers for our hellish winters, even if I did recently learn that shivering all day isn’t normal, and finally shook off the 19 degree brainwashing imposed on me by my frugal parents and turned the thermostat up to a much more workable 21 degrees celsius. Alexis and I realized we’d been suffering needlessly for months. Two degrees makes all the difference

Even with my thermostat deprogramming, I still love being bundled up like a kid on a snow day, so when Jen released the Tamarack Jacket in printed form I snapped it up quickly (which is good because the print version is temporarily sold out).

This was one of those big, time consuming projects that you happily sink into. The construction isn’t necessarily complicated, but patience is required with all that handmade bias tape and quilting, especially if you’re really going for it with a more intensive quilting pattern.

That said, I loved making this so.much. While I’m not sure the style is completely “me” (Guillaume likes to tease that I look like a bourgeois French suburban soccer mom whenever I wear it… gotta love that *french honesty*) I’ve been wearing it regularly all winter long. The sleeves are nice and roomy so its kind of the perfect thing to layer over sweaters.

I was also happy to stash bust the hell out of it. The chambray has been hanging around forever from who knows where, part of the endless mountain of chambrays I am constantly amassing. The lining is my favourite, a silky soft shibori print voile from April Rhodes’ last collection for Art Gallery Fabrics (you can find it for sale here). April sent this to me back in the summer and I finally found the perfect project for it. Since I had just barely enough, I didn’t bother fussing with print placement but I’m not losing any sleep over it.

The quilting motif was something I agonized over. I sewed up a  number of samples before settling on this simple yet geometric pattern. It took a few evenings to methodically work my way through quilting everything, but this is what rewatching the Office and podcasts are for. I had never really quilted anything before, so it was fun learning a new skill (and learning what those long arms that come with walking foots actually do – guide long lines of stitching!)

The entire jacket is finished with chambray bias tape which I stitched entirely by machine because obvious reasons. I especially love how it looks when I roll up the sleeves and a little bit of shibori peeks out.

Quilted Tamarack Jacket with Shibori print lining // Closet Case Patterns

The Tamarack must have given me the quilting bug, because I finally finished my WIP quilt from last year (free motion! madness!) and am planning to make up M7549, the really cute cropped quilted jacket from McCalls. I think that silhouette will be more appropriate for dressier outfits, and I’m kind of obsessed with the quilting pattern they did on the main envelope samples (although when I looked at the instructions they have you quilt huge pieces of fabric and then cut your pieces from that, which is COMPLETELY INSANE AND UNNECESSARY, sigh, Big 4). I’ll be using up some of the “flawed” black denim from our recent kits using the shinier “wrong side of the fabric, so that should be fun.

What do you think of the quilted jacket trend? Have you made up the Tamarack yet?

Details: Tamarack Jacket with blue chambray and shibori voile, Penny Raglan tee, Ginger Jeans, Firmoo glasses)

  • I have a friend in Nova Scotia who keeps her house a chilly 15 degrees… As much as I love her, I won’t be visiting her in the winter.

    • OH DEAR LORD NO. That is some Depression era holdover behavior! Is she 95?

      • Hardly! She’s in her forties. She’s a maritimer thorough and through: super friendly, funny and tough as hell.

  • Coolest guts ever! xo

  • Jess

    I love your Tamarack, I’m working ever so slowly on mine, and am determined to finally finish it this spring — just the binding left which is to say ALL of the binding left. I would love to read more posts on your take/takeaways from the Curated Closet!

    • Okay Jess, I will get cracking on those posts 😉

      I think you just need to set aside an afternoon. If you’re not handstitching it won’t take as long as you think!

  • Jane

    Hmm, French suburban soccer mums must be pretty stylish then! It’s sleeveless puffy vests here, and, yeah, they’re not for me. Love your Tamarack and the pattern has really grown on me. Think I would add buttons or a zip though. I can imagine it being something I would just grab and take with me everywhere.

    • They are, that’s kind of his joke, haha. It’s like a very stylish and practical coat for moms and non-moms alike 😉

      I considered adding buttons but I thought I wanted more of a cardigan sitch. Realizing belatedly it would probably be more practical as an actual jacket.

  • My parents…totally the same. It took a husband to thaw me out and undo the nonsense, LOL.

    Loving your jacket. It has a similar vibe to my men’s shirt refashion…I didn’t quilt the entire jacket, but most of it. Seeing your jacket…and that McCalls pattern….makes me want to give it another go!

    • Quilting is so funnnnnn! Such a nice thing to throw into the garment sewing grab bag 😉

  • Lauren

    Great job on the jacket! Allie J. just made a jacket with the same McCall’s pattern you’re planning. She made hers with leather, and it looks amazing! She also didn’t follow the lame instructions about quilting all the fabric before cutting out the pieces. She has some info here: http://www.alliemjackson.com/2017/02/girl-gang-style-mccalls-7549.html

    • I saw her post! It’s so great. We’re on the same wavelength. I cannot believe they have you quilt all the fabric. I am sympathizing with anyone who doesn’t realize you only need to quilt your actual pattern pieces.

      • On the two garments I’ve done, I rough cut my pattern pieces a little larger to allow for ‘shrinkage’ after quilting. Did you find that your actual pattern pieces became smaller than original?

  • Fadanista

    Such a lovely jacket – your quilting is epic, and that shibori! Not enough superlatives!

  • Francesca Amodeo

    Fabulous work Heather! I love the inside pockets. Looks lovely and cosy too…. Have to say though that the McCall one is much (underlined) more what I think of as “you”. Maybe it’s the European thing, I feel kind of like your guy about this and a lot of Grainline’s stuff. Mediterranean females don’t really like boxy things….

    • I agree! I like boxy things but a boxy jacket is hard to pull off. As much as I like this coat, it never feels quite right for my style. But I learned a lot and that’s what matters 😉

      • Francesca Amodeo

        Totally! Your quilting is impressive,,,, And you also have a gorgeous cosy jacket 🙂

  • rolaroid

    Love the length, and I think it is very “you”! A step away perhaps from what you think your style is but I really love how this looks on you, you wear it really well, so don’t doubt it 🙂

  • This is very cute! I love the McCalls jacket too. I have no plans to quilt anything anytime soon – I’ve just quilted a vinyl motorbike seat cover for my husband – first time quilting, first time vinyl and I’m still a little traumatised…. I need time to recover….

  • Jessamy B

    There is a happy medium between cutting out the pattern pieces and then quilting vs. quilting huge pieces of fabric. I am planning a modified vest version of the Driftless, and as someone who started out quilting, I thought it was a bit worrisome to cut the pattern pieces before quilting. I was planning on rough cutting mine, in case of any stretching/distortion. Did you find you had any? Also, I totally love your version, and think it makes the perfect “housecoat”. I’m also glad that someone I view as having a strong sense of style, makes things a bit outside your style “zone”, as I seem to be always doing that!

    • Thanks Jessamy! I found I had to trim off a little here and there but because the fit was generous I didn’t really mind…

  • Love the jacket! Just wondering – what did you put between the cotton fabrics?

    • Thanks Irene! I used cotton quilting batting but would consider using wool next time for something even warmer.

  • I think I’d be happy if a French person told me I looked French at all! Beautiful work.

    • Ah ha ha. Yes, I kind of enjoyed it despite his teasing 😉

  • I love quilted jackets! This is absolutely beautiful, especially with the shibori lining. I’ve always been afraid of attempting to quilt anything (or even make a quilt!) but I may have to give this pattern a try 🙂

  • I like this jacket!

  • Lovely! That shibori is beautiful inside! I recently bought this pattern, so this is great inspiration to get started. 🙂

  • What self-loving Canadian doesn’t love a comforter she can wear? I love your jacket! So cozy and roomy. One of my first sewing projects that I was so proud of was a quilted bag (ready made quilt fabric though) – 1973 – I still have it! It holds my childhood scrapbook that my mother thoughtfully collected over the years 🙂

    • What a lovely memento! I really lie the quilting look – I’m always brainstorming new places to apply these skills now.

  • So cute! And I think it looks super on trend with all the “chore coats” that seem to be popping up lately. I love the quilting and that lining…swoon!