How to sew sharp collar points // Closet Case Patterns
Read More
Sewalongs, Tutorials

Sewing Super Sharp Collar Points // Kalle Sewalong

This week we are talking about installing the collar for our Kalle Shirt & Shirtdress. I am going to show you two methods for doing so, but in the meantime I thought it would be fun to take a little detour to discuss how to sew sharp collar points. If you've made a few shirts, you've probably struggled with getting nice, sharp collar points. I wanted to experiment to see what got the best results, so I tried three different methods. The first one is commonly called for in shirt pattern instructions; as you approach the corner, you use a short...

Read more

Drygoods Design - Seattle WA // Closet Case Patterns
Read More
Sewing Blogs

This Week in Sewing Blogs // Vol. 139

Sorry for the short hiatus on our weekly round-up posts. I was on the West Coast for two weeks on a teaching trip and decided to try and unplug as much as possible when I wasn't in class, which meant I came home to a blog reader with 400 unread sewing blog posts (yikes). My trip was great; I taught at A Verb for Keeping Warm in Oakland and Drygoods Design in Seattle, two incredibly inspiring sewing spaces with strong missions and very tempting merchandise. The weather was fabulous, the company divine (with special thanks to Ebony and Kelly...

Read more

How to sew a curved faced hem // Kalle Sewalong // Closet Case Patterns
Read More
Sewalongs

Sewing the Hem Facing for View A // Kalle Sewalong

Earlier this week we covered sewing finishing our curvy hems with bias tape. For the cropped variation of the Kalle Shirt & Shirtdress pattern, a different technique is required: a hem facing. A little more involved than your standard hemming routine, our curved, faced hem creates a beautiful finish inside and out, in addition to creating the right amount of weight and body for the structure of the shirt. Before we can sew the hem, we need to finish the side seams of the shirt. Pin front and back together along the side seams, right sides together. Stitch along the length of the...

Read more

Finishing a curved hem with bias tape // Kalle Shirtdress pattern Sewalong
Read More
Sewalongs, Tutorials

Finishing Curved Hem with Bias Tape & Sewing Side Seams // Kalle Sewalong

Ready for the next step in our Kalle Shirtdress sewalong? Last week we used the Burrito Method to neatly encase the shoulder seams in the yoke. Now it's time to sew to assemble the shirt along the side seams and finish the hem. Technically you could finish the collar first, but I prefer to get the hem done at this stage in the game. Today's focus is on finishing an ultra curvy hem with bias tape. I tried a few different finishing methods when this pattern was in development, and ultimately bias tape gave the neatest finish. Feel free to use a...

Read more

Sewing a shirt yoke using the burrito method // Kalle Shirtdress Sewalong // Closet Case Patterns
Read More
Sewalongs, Tutorials

Sewing a Shirt Yoke – the Burrito Method // Kalle Sewalong

Today we are going to actually see our Kalle shirt & Shirtdresses coming together. Next week we'll be focusing on sewing seams and finishing hems, but before we can do that we have to assemble the front to back. I think there is a more complicated method to sew the yoke, but the only one I've ever used is the Burrito method, as outlined in Shirtmaking by David Coffin (such a great resource for your sewing library!) This method lets you sew the shoulder seams with a completely clean finish, since everything is encased in the yoke. Let's get started! First you need...

Read more

Read More
Sewalongs, Tutorials

Sewing a Curved Shirt Patch Pocket // Kalle Sewalong

Last week we covered how to sew a standard placket, hidden placket and tunic or popover placket for our Kalle Shirt & Shirtdress pattern. This week we'll assemble the body, and today's post will focus on sewing the optional patch pocket. The construction of this pocket is a little different than the traditional shirt pocket due to the pointed flap at the top. It's also curvy to mirror the curves happening along the hem. I suggest sewing the pocket once you've finished the plackets (although in the example below I haven't installed the placket yet). Please note that the top...

Read more

Tunic or popover placket sewing tutorial // Kalle Shirtdress Sewalong // Closet Case Patterns
Read More
Sewalongs, Tutorials

Sewing a Tunic or Popover Placket // Kalle Sewalong

Today's post is all about installing a tunic or popover placket in your Kalle Shirt & Shirtdress (or any shirt pattern for that matter). I spent a lot of time working on this pattern piece and its installation and I think we came up with a fairly simple method for sewing it. If you've ever sewn a traditional tower placket on a shirtsleeve you will feel comfortable sewing a popover placket. Essentially, you are cutting an opening into your shirt and then inserting a double-sided placket into that opening. There are quite a few steps but it's very satisfying to sew,...

Read more

How to sew a hidden button placket on a shirt // Kalle Shirtdress Sewalong // Closet Case Patterns
Read More
Sewalongs, Tutorials

How to Sew A Hidden Button Placket // Kalle Sewalong

Placket Week continues! One of the things you guys suggested for the Kalle Shirtdress pattern was some more advanced shirt-making options (in fact, I think it was Sophie who suggested we include a hidden button placket). I'd never made a hidden placket before I started working on this pattern, and I was happy to discover it's not that complicated to sew - just a few extra steps than the standard placket we discussed earlier this week. If you've never encountered one before, a hidden placket simply has an extra fold of fabric on top of the portion you sew the...

Read more